A note on 'fuel smell' on the dipstick. If you are not getting the car hot enough I think with a carbed car you will always have a bit of unburnt fuel smell with the oil.
I have some carb cleaner sitting around so I'll give the leak test a try before throwing my hands up. I would not be surprised if there is a leak somewhere between carb and mani. I also have some doubts as to how well the engine is currently tuned. The gentlemen from CPP has recommended a $600 vacuum booster stating that 12.5 is 'definitely too low'.
EDIT: Thanks for above post, Barry. Lunchtime reading is now locked and loaded.
Last edited by AlBeezy36; 03-01-2017 at 02:03 PM.
Cap off any vacuum lines going out of the engine and see what vacuum you get, also, just lop an inch off each vacuum line for a better seal.
There could be leaks in vacuum controls as well as leaks in the vacuum advance and brake booster. A simple hose pinch test is a quick way of finding leaks.
Also, there are idiots in the auto repair world that don't know that vacuum and fuel/water lines are different. Vacuum lines are made to not collapse and water and fuel lined are made to not explode.
Whether it has a cam or not shouldn't matter. That affects valve timing. We're talking about ignition timing.
Last edited by barry2952; 03-01-2017 at 02:11 PM.
A mild/moderate cam should still provide a fairly healthy amount of vacuum, though. If you can find out exactly what it is then you're much better off solving this issue and perhaps more down the line.
Does it have other modifications to the valvetrain? If so, do you know what you have there? It might help ascertain what the builder was thinking... Assuming he was thinking, of course!
Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
460 w/Kaase heads
Comp Cam (will drum up specs)
Performer RPM intake (mild)
Demond 750 Carb
Dizzy is an MSD mechanical unit, so no vac adv to leak or fail there.
There is some fuel seepage around the carb. I will get check valve for fuel line and new carb to mani gasket and retry.
I'll take a baseline with the new gasket, then dial in per Barry's very helpful guide above. I'll report back what I find.
Every car I've tuned in the last 10 years I've done this way. Like bad electrical connections they become cumulative like dealing with vacuum. It's best to touch every connection and examine every T.
I like to re-mark the timing marks using a simple TDC tool and see if they change over time.
Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
I'll be ordering a full carb rebuilt kit today. After further review last night, the carb to spacer nor spacer to manifold gasket are leaking, but just about every other interface in the carb assy is. I took some pictures to show you guys, but photobucket was misbehaving last night. I'll try again tonight.
**** I skipped a bunch:
I brought my SATA NR2000 out a 15 year retirement with a $150 rebuild kit. I used a 2 dollar nylon washer and guess I'll just have a spray gun that will last me for the rest of my life now. All good, because it's awesome. Even at 15 years old.
Euro clear and shed kill rooms
I even used that German rattle can epoxy primer which has the hardener in the bottom. Give it the legit 4 minutes shaking and it's pretty damn good. Ends up very hard as you'd expect with an epoxy. So far For a small part why not.
Apparently no pics of painted part
It turned out great despite the environment and my rustiness. Seriously, couldn't be more pleased.
Reproduction front bumper. It'll work. I have the original still and local shop wants $850 to replate it.
Check out that corrosion. Pretty sure it's dissimilar metals and grounding through the bumper bolts. I also noticed some drainage problems when I took a close look. I added a weep hole in each to try to keep it down in the future.
Added actual ground to each this time. Just a small homemade wire and a pull rivet. Put in with dielectric grease all over.
There's a painted part pic. Color is very slightly off. You can see 1/4 of the part with the bumper covering it.
I trimmed the hood after painting it back in the day. It took me 15 years to touch it up.
Sorry that's my best artistic over engine shot.
Find the cam card and look it up, Comp will actually tell you expected vacuum levels with their different grinds. It's worth mentioning (I think) that 9 out of 10 people who swap a cam into their own engine over cam it. A camshaft doesn't necessarily "make" power so much as it controls where in the RPM band the power is made.
I've done a small amount of reading which said that the duration at .050 is key - anything over 230 and expect significant vacuum losses. My ext is 236. Are they any cam experts in here who can interpret the card further?
Any one want to make a wager on expected vacuum after carb has been rebuilt? I guess it's not the end of the world if I end up with a hydro boost or vacuum assist, but it's just more junk under the hood.