Painless Wiring makes a braided loom that looks like Techflex braided sleeve but it is easier to install since it is split.
I found an example diagram which shows fusible links in-line prior to the relay. This is probably what I'll go with.
what ive seen some installs suffer from is clean junctions when using that braided type loom. its doable but a bit more work. it does look nice when done properly though
this is the spiral cut stuff ive used in the past.
if youre going to use something plastic, this is the only thing id consider.
edit, maybe another thing to consider is what the car came with from the factory if youre going with an oem+ type look (which it seems like you are from the rest of the underhood work).
anyway youve got options
Whoa more responses! Thread jack away brother.
For wrap I'm using oversized heat shrink tube. Looks clean, but will be a major pain if I have to go back and fix things. Thanks for the other suggestions. VCG, I like the matteness of the tape you recommended. Pat, I can't stand looms. I don't know why, but I've always felt they look kind of cheap. That painless loom looks a lot better than the std corrugated split loom though
Wow, one year later bump. Sorry to anyone who was wondering. I ended up going with Painless Classic Weave loom. Thanks for the recommendation, Patrick!
A lot has happened since I last updated:
- Front of engine assembled including accessory drive
- Replaced offset lower control arm shafts with offset bushings and straight lower control arm shafts (similar to 427 models)
- Rewired everything forward of the firewall (very time consuming)
- Upgraded alternator to a 90amp unit and replaced under-drive pulley with a nominal diameter piece (still doesn't sit pegged at 14V unless revved - will revisit)
- Remade brake lines to clear headers
- Replaced brake master and painted with por-15; built pressure bleeder plate to bleed system by myself (still has air in system but found leak and have not re-bled)
- Installed hella horns on relayed harness
- Installed hella H4 (low/high) headlights on relayed harness
- Ditched inner headlights (high) for faux vents (might go back later and do actual ducting like thunderbolts or lightweights)
- Had bung welded into radiator to move fan temp switch from water neck to rad
- Painted radiator and trans cooler with radiator black paint from Eastwood
- Completed all wiring and remaining integration along core support (a lot going on)
- Adjusted panel gaps between fenders/doors/hood (basically readjusted the front clip)
- Replaced header gaskets
- Filled fluids
- Replaced plugs
- Put a couple in-line fuel filters
- Fired up and drove around block a few times after 3 years of sitting
- Etc. etc. etc.
I also put a new convertible top from Robin's on my NA, bought back a '72 2002 that I purchased from the original owner and then sold back after falling out with his son (long time friend; unfortunately passed away 1.5 years ago).
In addition life has been happening. So now that excuses are over, here a couple subpar pictures of the cars now.
Front of engine put together, wiring a long way from being done:
Fun cars together:
Engine together in running form. Would like to revisit that upper radiator hose:
Out for a quick cruise with my buddy:
Back safely in the garage:
(Those are turn signal wires that will be hooked up once I get the front bumper re-chromed)
I'm currently working on getting the chip valence which goes beneath the grill and behind the bumper repainted and installed. Once that is done I'll install the front bumper and wire the turn signals. From there the exterior is complete to my liking and I'll go back and finish the interior.
Anyways, thanks for looking. See you guys next July
Very cool I know what you are feeling because I did the exact same thing with my notchback. Built it in autobody during highschool then it sat dormant and now is coyote swapped and a blast haha. As far as the alternator have you every considered going the 3g alt route? All of my older stuff that is the first thing I do to them because the dang spade connectors get loose in the back and arc and melt and just is a mess. 120 amps of juice and always at 14.v
Last edited by AlBeezy36; 07-13-2016 at 10:01 PM.
I wanted one of those soooOOooo bad when I was 16. I worked at a gas station and there was a 64 convertible with a 390 4 barrel and bucket seats for sale for $400 but my Dad wouldn't let me buy it because it needed brake work and the top probably was going to need replaced. I would have loved that car, it was sooo cool!
2013 Mk VI GTI / 2002 Acura RSX type S / 94 Chevy pickup1500
Thanks for the kind words everyone. I found a picture of the old wiring setup under the hood. I thought I'd post a shot showing what I came from:
A rag-tag setup with crap grounding and a cheap power strip in the corner. Now everything is neatly routed with a terminal box that has it's own ground, a relay bank with it's own fuse box, and all new wiring/connectors
I don't have new picture progress right now, but after digging through older pics I thought my stereo project was kind of fun - thought I'd share.
The stock unit is an AM only unit, but it's 2016. I know straight up restorations can't be beat, but there isn't much worth listening to on AM around me, so I went with an upgrade from Retro Sound.
This piece comes with its own bezel, but I wanted to integrate it into the factory stuff as cleaning as possible. To do this I needed to sacrifice a good part to the resto gods (sorry).
Getting built up for install. This unit has a remote USB and AUX plug in which can be mounted in the glove box. I got a little funky there (I'll show ya in a bit).
There is trim missing from the above shot. I kind of jumped the gun building the dash up to the point I have, but oh well. I'm still on the hunt for the long strip which goes behind everything to the left of the glove box.
USB/AUX Glovebox install:
I really ought to replace this glove box cardboard liner. It's a little rough, but it looks OK in the car.
Thanks for looking
OK, time for an update.
Last time I posted I had thrown together some pictures of my stereo install to fill some dead airtime. Time has been a little bit tighter as of recent and with some other things in work, the Galaxie hasn't been #1. I have found bits of time here and there though, and here is what I did.
With the engine up and running it's about time to put together the grill, remaining headlight surrounds, front valence or chip guard, and the front bumper. The current plan is to respray the valance myself busting out the ol' spray gun again, and find a chrome shop near me up north or hopefully close to Seattle at least as I'd rather not ship this 45lbs 5ft long boat anchor. The only remaining real work left on the outside of the car is the hood, but that's another story.
After putting the tin work on and the valence I went and took a look at the bumper horn adjustments. Things have moved since I first put the car together. The front clip has been shimmed correctly and panels have actually been gapped instead of just throwing it together to get it on down the road. Because of all of that I wanted the ability to adjust each of the horns to align the bumper as I saw fit. Unfortunately 19 year old me didn't give a **** about adjusting the bumper. I painted POR-15 right over the joint creating a little hot box for corrosion. It wasn't all that bad, but after trying to turn a few of the nuts I was greeted with rust flakes and dust on the floor in front of me. After breaking most of it free I got a special treat. One of the strap on capture nuts that attach the outer most horns had broken at some point (likely from corrosion caused by some dirt that had collected in the frame rail). Here's me after I'd begun drilling of the head of this 1/2-13 bolt. It was Ford tough with a head that was .350 thick
That's my harbour freight drill which is actually pretty darn tough. I've had 2 of them in 7ish years and I beat the hell out of them.
After getting everything off and the dirt out of the rails I assessed the damage. Not too bad really. Some surface corrosion, but nothing to be concerned about.
The big hole in the front accepts an eccentric bushing to tilt the inner horn up and down. It pivots from the first normal sized hole aft of it which is 1/2. The two bolt holes on top of each other aft are the two that hold on the outer horns. You can see on the drivers side I have both strap nuts, but on the pass side the bottom one broke. I needed to make a new one.
Can you find a 1/2-13 capture nut? Can you? I sure as hell couldn't. I ended up sourcing it from somewhere called AMK who apparently specializes in old school hardware. Problem was 2 capture nuts were $5, but they had a minimum order of $30 so I bought a guide to ford fasteners 1955-1973. I should've taken some pics of this thing. It has all types of info including part numbers for bolts, nuts, screws, you name it. Hit me up if you want me to try and look something up in this thing.
Anyways, the strap is just a piece of low quality steel from Home Depot. It's 1" wide and about an eighth thick. Luckily it was easily formed in my vice and ground with my grinders. I didn't mention this, but I cut the end off the capture nut because it had a formed in raised edge intended to sit within a hole much larger than I could afford so I cut it off. I didn't need that type of retention anyways.
I painted both parts in some semi-gloss POR-15 and got some new hardware. In fact I got new bolts for all the horns. I don't get bugged at my local ACE anymore when I dart straight for the hardware aisle.
Here are both of the weird washers and the eccentric bushings that hold on the inner horns and one of the Ford tough bolts. When you take cars like this apart you really see just why they're so flippin heavy. Look at that square washer. It must be to reinforce the rail where the horn attaches, but seriously these things weigh about a lb a piece.
I cleaned these up and painted them with my gloss POR-15. I had to re-use the bolts for the eccentric bushings because they have a square directly beneath the head to index the bushing. Couldn't find anything new so I re-cut the threads, smeared a light amount of grease on them and called it good. Sorry, no re-plating budget here.
I don't have any pictures of the prep for whatever reason, but I really took my time cleaning that surface rust on the frames, then re-coated the POR-15 and started to put things back together. You can really see the gloss die back on the POR-15 with the applications 15 years apart right next to each other. This stuff holds up pretty good, but it's not perfect.
I apologize for that pass side outer headlight surround. It's in awful shape and needs replacing or replating. Not sure where one gets this type of trim redone. I believe it's similar to an anodize process?
So after getting this far I wanted to try and fix whatever was causing my soft brake pedal. Driving the car again had gotten under my skin and I needed more. This thing just sounds nuts. It can kind of boogie for the 4500lb car that it is. I made myself this pressure bleeder because I'm a loser and typically work on my stuff alone. It's just a weed sprayer pump with a pressure gauge in it. It's plumped to an OE cap and provides pressure to the system so I can bleed each screw by myself at my leisure. It also allows you to pump it up and inspect for leaks by watching the gauge or walking around and looking. Pretty neat. There's kits out there but this was more fun. I originally built it for the 2002, but with a couple fittings and some more hose I had it rigged to an extra master cap I had sitting around. You have to put the fittings offset on the cap so the strap can come up, but in hindsight it didn't matter because I needed clamps to seal it anyways. You also need to cut holes in the rubber gasket on the cap and epoxy the perimeter to the metal cap itself. I took my time and prepped both the rubber and the cap and it's held up through multiple sessions. I epoxy on the fittings too. A little on the thread, torque it in, then do a little fillet around the edge. Looks like ****, but seals well. You can see mine holding at 5psi in the pic.
Turned out the leaks were coming from the pipe thread joints that made up this setup. I've always been really scared of brake pressure switches. The 15 year old one on the car leaked when I jumped back in last. This one has been fine, but the unions coming off the prop. valve I guess have always seeped. No problem. I'll take it apart, replace the unions as needed. Seal the threads and move on. Wrong. Leaks and more leaks. When one was fixed, a new one popped up. Now my bleeders are seeping. WTF! Calm down... It's only brakes. I said screw it. Replaced the wheel cylinders in the back and got lucky only needing new bleeder screws on my calipers. I finally bought a drum brake spring tool too. Do you have one of these? If not and you're a total idiot like me struggling with vice grips and screw drivers, stop. Just stop doing it man. I watched a video on youtube and thought it was a joke. Best $6 I've ever spent on tools. What rock have I been under? Back on target I also replace the prop. valve up front. I was kind of drunk and tried to re cut the threads to 3/8-24, ruining them? Why? I don't know I had been drinking. So $45 later I had a new prop. valve from summit but they've changed them to 3/8-24 with a tapered seat to accept a double flared brake line directly and no longer take 1/8 NPT despite it listing that thread on the summit site. OK, guess I can't use these pipe unions anymore. Good, I didn't like the in line brake light pressure switch anyways.
Next I did something I didn't want to do. I ditched the stainless brake lines coming off the master and re made them in the stuff you can get at NAPA. Why? If you can make a double flare in stainless with hand tools I have respect. It is very difficult getting an even flare with that stuff even after resorting to heat. I ended up breaking a master cylinder flared seat (which was a thin cast) after trying to get a good seal on one I'd done. One that I thought was pretty decent too. Maybe it was the MC. Anyways, I came very close to pulling the trigger on the $$$ eastwood unit trying to make a couple stainless lines earlier. If you've got a tool that works share it. I've had most of my success from the OEM brand tool you see in my vice. It's $15 from autozone and does the best job of holding the tube still. I know you can stick the parallel bars in the vice, but it's still bull****. Also, with those same bars the die can rotate and do whatever it wants damaging your flare. With the OEM guy it threads on so you know you're 90.
Anyways, here it is. I got a pretty good bleed on it after 3 times around. Someone who has driven these cars first hand. What did they stop like with no power brakes? A barrel of dicks? Good, it's up to spec then.
After a drive at 8pm. I'm sure the neighbors love me. It's so loud that you have to almost shout at anything more than an idle. I think the 3" Flowmaster 40 series that 19 year old me thought were cool will eventually come off.
Originally Posted by sosumi on the B6 S4 V8