**Work in Progress**
From Forge:This kit allows you to relocate the diverter valve from the hot side of the turbo to the cold side of the intercooler on the VW Golf, SEAT Leon (not Ibiza), Skoda Octavia and Audi A3, TT 1.8T engines of 150 - 180 HP.
By relocating the valve in this way there are two benefits. Firstly, due to operating in lower temperatures the longevity of the valve is increased. Secondly, after relocation, the air that is recirculated back into the intake tract to the turbo will be cooler. Cooler air has a greater density. The greater the density of the charge mix in the cylinder the more power generated on combustion.
This is what we are trying to replacate:
For the assembly:
Metal Applicator (pumpkin carving tool?)
drill bits capable of penetrating aluminum
a file or two, preferably one that fits on your drill
Hacksaw to cut the pipe if necessary
Enough tools to remove the bumper, headlight and TB Hose
Hose Clamps ($8-10 per 10 pack)
6-10' of 1" radiator hose - $15-20 ($2.69/ft)
1" plug - $1.50
1" elbow - $2
1" threaded steel adapter/bung - $3
Metal TB replacement pipe - $20 (available on ebay, FYI, these will not fit stock components and can only be used if you replace plumbing, i.e. with a FMIC kit, or if you use just the tb pipe as I am doing)
Total Cost: $40-60 for parts/tools depending on how good you are at finding a bargain. Forge Kit is ~$200 + shipping.
1. Go on the web and order the TB *pipe*, not hose, but metal pipe, maybe in a combo kit.
2. Go on the web and check out what a forge DV replacement TB hose looks like and examine the angle and fitment of the DV flange
3. go to ace hardware and get a 1" plug, 1" 90 degree elbow, both plastic, and a steel or copper 1-1 1/4"x1" NPT threaded hose barb adapter.
4. use drill bits, 3 or 4, upping the size each time, and drill a pilot hole. then drill expanding small holes around the center hole, and work it over extensively with the drill mounted file bit. it takes a while, and I didn't take picks, but I eventually made a nasty, semi-round hole, where I could insert the DV bung at an angle.
5. mix up a bunch of JB weld. lightly sand the hole and remove obvious scraps. position the bung and sorta screw it in to wedge it against the threads at an angle.
6. apply JB weld liberally to seal up the part, and find a suitable place to hang it while the jb weld does the trick: *tip* the JB weld will run if you apply it immediately, let it setup for 20 mins or so to thicken and it will go on smoother.
7. If you're like me, you did a bad job making the hole round, and need to sand and reapply JB weld the next day to thicken it up and secure the bond. Probably not even necessary, but I think it is worth it.
This is what I have so far after the first coat of JB Weld, but I'll re-post as I continue to work on it and do the install.
And the Forge Silicon Kit:
Modified by ypsetihw at 4:26 PM 3-25-2010