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    1. Member vwpieces's Avatar
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      83 TD Jetta, 68 Bus, 83 2dr Jetta 16V, 1971 Kawasaki H1 500
      05-11-2008 03:28 PM #1
      Complied the parts for my 1.8 SC build & now have a block getting prepped.
      I will be using an NOS set of Audi turbo pistons. These pistons are notched for squirters but I believe the squirter notches are on the wrong side. I will not be using a squirter block so that is not an issue. I am just wondering if these are still supposed to be installed with the arrow to the front, #1 or pulley side? I don't wanna mess up my new forged low compression pistons...

      Basic build list so far
      2H 1.8L block standard bore
      JH crank
      Audi Turbo 81mm forged pistons.
      G60 rods, new pins seem to be snug, should I have them rebuilt? Have not measured the big ends.
      Solid lifter head, JH or the Eurospec stage 1 I have stashed away... ??
      oil pump?? From the JH or 2H??
      Head gasket?? G60 or JH??
      Also going with the Glyco multi piece Main bearings & got new thrust
      Glyco rod bearings are rifle drilled but the G60 rods are not, no other bearings seem to be avail w/ out holes.

      I will admit this is my first watercooled engine build, any do's & don't do are appreciated. It will have an eaton supercharger attached, should I break it in before the SC gets hooked up?

      This weekend was basically ghetto prep of the block, Intermediate bearings were removed & all freeze plugs. I was going to have it tanked but all the local shops are backed up. I ended up washing the coolant jacket with muraitic acid & it worked well getting all the mung out. It was previously solvent washed & I also again washed it with simple green inside & out. It is now all taped off & a buddy is going to blast the outside to clean up the rust before I paint it. Blasting options are baking soda, glass bead or sand... recommendations here? It will be done open air, outside... I am thinking no on the sand as one missed particle will waste a bearing.

      Finally moving fwd on the 83 2dr Jetta after a long slow winter.


      Modified by vwpieces at 4:42 AM 6-5-2008


    2. Member vwpieces's Avatar
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      05-14-2008 04:22 PM #2
      Hey Peter,
      Gonna be a reliable daily driver, pump gas & if I get 10psi I will be more than happy. I do not want to make this too complicated to get set up & running. Already venturing into unchartered waters (for me) w/ the complete build of the engine & then wiring up megasquirt. Actually getting it to start & run will be a joyous day.

      Would you recommend the G60 head gaket or the normal fiber type?

      I have not CC'd the combustion chamber on the heads yet. I will be finished prepping the block this weekend. Glass beaded & all painted up so I can rewash it & start putting some parts back on it.


    3. 05-14-2008 05:38 PM #3
      hi! chiming in here...
      I would definitely go with the g60 head gasket as it lowers compression. and I was wondering why do you want to switch to megasquirt? I would recommend sticking with digifant, but you have to switch to g60 digifant. I'm just recommending it because even though standalone is cool it requires quite a bit of work. thats my two cents. and if i'm missing any technicalities please let me know. g/l with the build.

    4. Member vwpieces's Avatar
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      05-14-2008 06:45 PM #4
      I will be getting some help with the MS basics. Originally a CIS car, 83 MK1 Jetta. I have a vast array of OEM connectors & terminals & have made a few harneses from scratch & a Bentley diagram. Nothing too difficult but I made the cooling harness on the 83 TD Jetta as it is TD specific. electrical wiring does not scare me, frustrates me some times but I can usually get it figured out.

      The Audi MC code pistons are originally 7.8:1 CR so I do not think I should be lowering it any more. I still have to CC the combustion chambers & once assenbeled I will check the deck & CC a piston. & I'll have to look up crush thickness of both head gaskets too. Any know off hand to save me some time?


    5. Member vwpieces's Avatar
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      05-14-2008 06:48 PM #5
      Oh & just got a call from my buddy that was glassbeading the block. It's all finished & he said he painted it too. Will be doing another coat tonight. NICE... that means it should be good & hard by the weekend & I can get on putting it together.

    6. 05-14-2008 07:23 PM #6
      Good to see it moving foreward!

    7. 05-14-2008 10:05 PM #7
      sorry to jack thread, but to run boost is it ABSOLUTLY NECESSARY to run g60 digi 1? or can it be regular digi 1 or even digi 2??

    8. 05-15-2008 04:02 AM #8
      well g60 digifant is meant for boost and you cant really integrate lets say, a mk1 digi setup with a g60 ecu.

    9. Member vwpieces's Avatar
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      05-26-2008 06:54 PM #9
      Block is painted, honed w/ 320 flex-hone, final cleaning is done.
      Bores checked out fine & round. Also checked ring gap & it's fine.
      Started assembly:
      Intermediate shaft bearings
      Intermediate shaft, seals & cover
      ARP main studs
      Main bearings & crankshaft are installed & torqued
      Spins like butter

      Pressed in the ARP rod bolts into the G60 rods the other day too. I will torque them up & check the big ends next. Was in a hurry today & did not get pics to add to my boring post.


    10. Member vwpieces's Avatar
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      06-02-2008 04:09 AM #10
      woohoo pics.

      Bores & low compression Audi turbo forged pistons

      Now we're getting somewhere, mocked up to check alignment of the belts & charger. Do ya like the work bench? Most of the assembly, once it was too heavy to pick up myself, was done inside the cargo floor of the 68 bus. Now it sits on a stand at my buddy's shop.

      Some charger piping. Stock JH head just for looks. Working on the Eurospec solid lifter head. Got some serious porting to do on the intake manifold.

      Spent a couple hours working out a bad cam bearing on the Eurospec head. Some light filing, 400 grit sanding & hand lapping bearing cap on a new cam I had around. It was the bearing on the pulley side that was not happy. After some eyeballing & fixin by hand, I installed the cam. I turned it by the pulley lightly tightening the bad cap. Taking it off several times to oil it up & wipe out the greyed slime. Over all it took me 2 hours until the cam would spin free torqued down. After I felt satisfied with it I used a plastiguage on the bad bearing & it looked swell. Also checked & compared to a good bearing. Plastigauge was the same... success, saved the head. I feel confident to put it back into service. Before the cam would not move at all when torqued. Having a new cam with fresh ground bearing surfaces helped to lap it back into shape.


    11. Member Longitudinal's Avatar
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      06-03-2008 10:42 AM #11
      You are correct about the Audi oil jet cutouts being on the wrong side. Audi put the galley for oil jets on the other side for the I5 engines. I have built two 8VT engines essentially on this pattern, and both are alive and seem quite content without oil jets.
      Like my Facebook page, Quantum Mechanics, for Audi Fox Quattro progress pics and more.

      https://www.facebook.com/VWQuantumMechanics

    12. Member vwpieces's Avatar
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      06-04-2008 11:53 PM #12
      Quote, originally posted by Longitudinal »
      You are correct about the Audi oil jet cutouts being on the wrong side. Audi put the galley for oil jets on the other side for the I5 engines. I have built two 8VT engines essentially on this pattern, and both are alive and seem quite content without oil jets.

      Thanks for the reassurance. I was wondering if the arrow on top still has the the same rules. I pointed it to the pulley side. G60 rods also got the bumps to the pulley side. Short block spins nice.

      I know from aircooled if you install the pistons backwards you get a funny knock.


    13. Member vwpieces's Avatar
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      06-05-2008 05:14 AM #13
      Nothin new & exciting lately. Been working on the Eurospec head. Head is a stage 1 stock JH valve size & combustion chambers. Did some unshrouding of the exhaust valves & just a tad on the intakes. Slight smoothing of the chamber too.

      No pics of the head work but here is the engine now on a stand.


      Do ya like my Oringinal VW dealer engine yoke?

      A pretty good pic of the mounting adapter for the Eaton Charger to G60 bracket.

      In the back ground is a freshly painted 1984 MK1 Jetta 4dr, custom "duck killer" bill... Not my car.


      Modified by vwpieces at 5:17 AM 6-5-2008


    14. Member Longitudinal's Avatar
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      06-08-2008 01:47 AM #14
      Quote, originally posted by vwpieces »
      I know from aircooled if you install the pistons backwards you get a funny knock.

      Yup, offset wrist pins. They are supposed to reduce piston rock/noise, but if they are installed backward, that all goes out the window. When I build 8V turbo engines using the 1.7L crank/MC rod/MS piston combo, I follow Audi positioning for the rods (opposite direction of VW rods) and pistons.

      Like my Facebook page, Quantum Mechanics, for Audi Fox Quattro progress pics and more.

      https://www.facebook.com/VWQuantumMechanics

    15. Member vwpieces's Avatar
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      06-08-2008 01:27 PM #15
      Sent you an IM to make sure I got my head (pistons) straight.

    16. Member manfredwerner's Avatar
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      06-08-2008 07:24 PM #16
      how much is that sc? and also how much is the build costing you so far?


      thanks.


    17. 06-09-2008 01:13 AM #17
      gorgeous. now the pressure is on for my build. finally some motivation!

    18. Member vwpieces's Avatar
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      06-09-2008 12:32 PM #18
      Quote, originally posted by manfredwerner »
      how much is that sc? and also how much is the build costing you so far?


      thanks.

      So far I everything sost me about $3500 with the charger.
      The charger package cost $1500 alone & came with all sorts of parts, some that did not go with this setup. Already sold several item like misc parts for the old Autotech Magnacharger, 68mm G60 pulley to recoupe some cash back on the deal.

      That charger alone retails for about $3000 new, you best bet is ebay to find a deal or get a reman from Magnuson or magnacharger.com

      Basic price breakdown:
      Eaton charger & misc pile of parts $1500
      2h Engine 72,000 miles I used the block only $120
      JH Engine 56,000 miles Free but about $50 in fuel to pick it up.
      Main, rod, thrust & intermediate shaft bearings $120
      NOS New Forged Audi pistons set of 4 $220
      G60 rods good used $40
      New JH pump $65
      New oil pan & windage tray $58
      Water pump & housing $60
      Autotech light intermediare shaft pulley $40
      Kent cams adj cam sprocket used $40
      Pile of G60 misc parts, alternator, charger main bracket, injectors & rail, crank pulley, tensioners, Intake, TB & more I am sure $140
      G60 Head gasket $60
      ARP rod, main & head studs... forget, but about $300
      New dizzy $80
      Seals & misc gaskets, $70ish
      G60 alternator cover & Valve cover, got in trade for ECO TD Airbox, aprox value $75
      Custom Cam from TT $250
      Eurospec head Bought it a long time ago for $400
      Autotech HD Springs $85
      TI retainers $105
      New valves & guides gotem a while ago for a different head & do not recall, $150
      Timing belt kit $30
      Another G60 TB from auto with TPS $100
      MK2 water pipe $25
      Misc used G60 Hoses & water pump studs for charger $40
      Lower timing cover & tin & another charger bracket I needed, $30
      Injector seal kits $24
      Digi injector holders for Eurospec head $80
      Misc Stainless fasteners used everywhere possible estimated at $200
      Purchased another pair of pistons while I can get them, just in case... $120
      ABA non AC water pump pulley $30
      stock oil cooler $60

      Why did you have to ask this...

      HMM how bout $4800 estimated soo far & that was done cheap for the most part, no machine shop labor at all. The Eurospec head will be done with much less than 1/2 retail ($2000)

      & I am sure there are parts I forgot.


    19. Member vwpieces's Avatar
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      06-09-2008 12:44 PM #19
      Some new pics. Head, guides getting pressed in & some pics of the bottom end opened up again for the windage tray & pan.

      Head


      Installing new guides

      Bottom end with ARP studs being pointed out.




      Modified by vwpieces at 12:47 PM 6-9-2008


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      06-09-2008 01:01 PM #20
      Gotta love the port sizes on those Eurospec heads

    21. Member vwpieces's Avatar
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      06-09-2008 01:01 PM #21
      Learned some new things, forst installation of the pump & dizzy made the intermediate shaft kinda hard to turn. I repositioned the oil pump this time when I put the windage tray in & also left the dizzy installed. Shaft spins much better now.

      Working in the head now, installed new guides & now they have to be reamed. Gonna buy an adjustable reamer later today. Exhaust seats will have to be ground slightly. 2 out of the 4 exh valves lapped nicely but the other 2 not soo happy. One exh seat has a lip on the inner edge. Once the new guides were in I noticed NONE of the intake valves fit any more. Poped out a used valve from another head & it has the same diameter stem, no fitty either. Measured the exhaust stems & they are 0.001 smaller... Why?? Screw it, getting a reamer anyway.

      Ported the intake the other day too. Not a huge port job but really focused on make a straight line in the rinners. Man there a lot of bumps & curves in a stock intake. Took about 6 hours, using tapered rolls & flap wheels. Gasket matched the openings. No pics right now & I left the intake at my buddy's shop with the engine... maybe tomorrow will post pics of the work.


    22. Member manfredwerner's Avatar
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      06-10-2008 10:36 AM #22
      Thanks for the info on the pricing. now i am afirm n/a motors beleiver...

    23. Member vwpieces's Avatar
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      06-11-2008 10:15 AM #23
      Quote, originally posted by manfredweiner »
      Thanks for the info on the pricing. now i am afirm n/a motors beleiver...

      To get equal power from a NA engine it would cost 2X as much.


      Modified by vwpieces at 10:25 PM 4-1-2010


    24. Member vwpieces's Avatar
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      06-11-2008 10:52 AM #24
      Did some working on the head again last night. Turns out I did have a 5/16 Expandable reamer in my bag of tricks. Bouhgt it at a VW show a year or 2 ago for $4.00. It needed some slight tuning of the adjustment pin but it worked well. I reamed the valve guides & fitted the intakes. Learned that production & manufacturing tolerances are not too consistent. Also found a couple dings in the stems of a couple valves. Used a jewlers file & some wet 1200 sand paper to polish up all the stems before fitting them. Having the expandable reamer worked well allowing to size the guide to each valve. Each intake was fitted individually to where it can be lifted, let go & it would fall effortless into the seat. Even though the Exhaust valves fit after the guide installation I still reamed them out to remove any burrs from pressing the guides. I also fitted the exhaust looser than the intakes to allow for more heat expansion.



      I purchased some Autotech HD valve springs... I do not like a couple things about them. Pressure is way too hard in my opinion. The other is the bind of the inner spring to the outer spring. I am considering a hybrid set of springs using the autotech oputers & stock inners. I know a porsche engine builder that has a spring tester & may have him test a stock set, hybrid set & the AT set for comparison. If the hybrid set fall into the middle I will use them mixed. I will also check the bind height to make sure all will be good with the cam lift. My engine is not being built to be an 8000rpm screamer so excessive valve pressure will only wear the components out faster.


    25. Member vwpieces's Avatar
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      06-12-2008 02:56 PM #25
      Got some flap wheels in yesterday & decided to hit phase 2 porting the intake. Here are some pics of the final product. O used a super thin layer of aviation to get an imprint of head pattern to the intake. Carved a line with an Xacto knife & started to hog the holes to the final size. Total there is about 12-15 hours invested in this intake. It is pretty darn thin & hopefully it will not crack or blow a gasket. One area of concern is #4 lower right for gasket contact surface.

      Anyone have suggestions for a hardening gasket spooge? Not sure silicone or aviation will hold up here under boost.





    26. Member secondgen's Avatar
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      06-12-2008 11:43 PM #26
      Looking good, following this thread. Can't help you with suggestions on gasket stuff. Love to get my hands on a Eurospec head though.......someday......

      Edit:

      Cam size/specs you're running? Tapered Valve guides? Valves are 8mm or 7mm stems? Oversized? Ti retainers?


      Modified by secondgen at 8:46 PM 6-12-2008


    27. Member vwpieces's Avatar
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      06-19-2008 03:34 AM #27
      Valves are stock as came in a JH head, 8mm stems. Guides are slightly tapered inside the bowls but nothing real special. Seats on the Eurospec head are opened & thinner, not leaving any room for a multi angle valve job. When I cut the seats I simply did a 45* single cut to achieve the needed contact width as in the Bentley. Really nothing special in the way of valve job or customizing. I did what I could with the tools & parts I had available. I had access to a Sioux seat grinder & limited stones. I actually dressed the stone to 45* that were not originally 45* because it was the only stone that cleared the exhaust wall. The head originally only had a single cut on the seats. The valves lapped nice & sealed well when done.

      Cam lingo is not my strong point. Cam is going to be a custom grind 274/276 for boost. Specs were recommended to me by other people according to my build. Cam should be done soon & when it arrives I will know more details on it.

      I went with Autotech HD springs & TI retainers.

      Head is now bolted on, used ARP studs & a G60 head gasket. Tonight I started to play, fabricating a rear support bracket for the charger.


    28. Member vwpieces's Avatar
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      06-23-2008 04:57 PM #28
      Still moving along but slowed down a bit. New pics as it nears completion.

      Intake is mounted, sized up serpentine belts for both pulley sizes I have, rear charger mount is almost done but still would like another mounting point to the block. I think the second brace will go to the fuel pump block off plate. I am still awaiting a cam to install the timing belt & adjust the valves.

      ]

      Anyone have ideas or suggestions to mount a G60 digi fuel rail to a non digi head? My head does not have the threaded bosses in the casting.

      Also having issues with injector seal fitment. Seems I have the green G60 injectors that need the split plastic rings on either side of the O-ring into the holders on the head. Normal seal kits come with a plastic ring & plastic cap, these are not on my injectors. Found an old thread with similar question but no resolution was posted. The configuration I have, heat causes the inner ring to deteriorate & is impossible to remove the O-ring without cracking the plastic ring. Looks like doubling the o-ring is possible to take up the extra room on the holder. My Eurospec head also has brass injector holders with no inner lip to retain the injector.


      Modified by vwpieces at 5:01 PM 6-23-2008


    29. Member autopulse's Avatar
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      06-24-2008 12:55 PM #29
      im in love fantastic build..
      "Wang Wang, Doughnut Mode" - Andreas Preuninger

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      06-24-2008 10:59 PM #30
      sickness nickness

    31. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      06-30-2008 03:38 AM #31
      Quote, originally posted by vwpieces »

      I will admit this is my first watercooled engine build, any do's & don't do are appreciated.

      For a first your doing a HELL of a fine job

      p.s. Want to sell that engine yoke?


    32. Member vwpieces's Avatar
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      06-30-2008 05:31 AM #32
      That engine yoke is going to be occupied for a while. Still have to build the car the engine is going in. Most of the parts are ready to go for the car but still a ton of work to do on it. Car is an 83 Jetta 2dr, sunroof, no AC.

      Guess I'd just make you more upset if I told you I have 2 of them. First one I acquired was from an aircooled buddy, said he would lend it to me indefinitely. One in use now with my engine on it I picked up at a VW show swap for $35 & it also had the 313 bench top mount.

      I think that's your distributor mounted on my engine...

      & thanks for the compliment, means a lot from someone of your stature.


    33. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      06-30-2008 05:36 AM #33
      Wait,
      the aircooled yolk's work on the water cooled engines?

    34. Member vwpieces's Avatar
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      06-30-2008 03:20 PM #34
      No, I said I got it from an aircooled GUY. He dabbles in alot of VW dealer tools & has no interest in water cooled tools. I usually end up with the water cooled tools. Here is a pic of an aircooled mounting Yoke. This one is the Porsche 6cyl design & still works on the old VW's.


    35. Member Jettaboy1884's Avatar
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      02-01-2009 04:17 PM #35
      Amazing Build.

      Bumping this back up for updates.


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