Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    Fourtitude.com


    Results 1 to 14 of 14
    1. 02-23-2007 11:53 AM #1
      I just purchased my first Audi. I'v always drove VW's so it was time for a change. My Audi is a 2001 A4 2.8. I was wondering if anyone knows how to isolate the fog lights from the headlights so I can run them alone with the parking light.

    2. Moderator robbyb413's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 12th, 2002
      Location
      Longmeadow, MA / Boston, MA
      Posts
      16,180
      Cars
      2010 S4 Prestige, 1999 TJ 4.0, 2010 A4 P+ (Hers)
      02-23-2007 01:45 PM #2
      Pop open your glove box, and follow this guide.... for everyone else take note this is written for the 99.5 and up a4, not the earlier models.

      Taken from: Audi World Tech Resources
      Author: Peter Harren (harren@mail.dls.net)

      I originally performed this modification on a '00 US Spec S4, but it should apply to any '99.5 and later A4 or '00 and later S4. The key thing is that you have the "second generation" fog light buttons. If you modify your fog lights per this FAQ, your fog lights will operate as follows:


      The front and rear fog lights can be turned on anytime the ignition is on.
      Neither the headlights nor the running lights need to be on for the fogs to be on.
      The fog lights won't cut out if the high beam headlights are on.
      The rear fog lights do NOT come on independently of the front fog lights (stock operation).
      This modification requires NO cutting or modification of the wiring harness. It does require the modification of the unit that controls the fog light buttons. But, this part can be easily unplugged and replaced if you have any problems. The unit costs around $80-90 if you need to replace it.

      To do this modification, you will need to get into glove compartment cavity. Make sure it is empty before you start! Open the glove compartment and locate the stop mechanism that holds the glove compartment door in its normally open position. The mechanism is located at the top rear corners of the glove compartment door. The mechanism varies from car to car, making it difficult to describe in a FAQ. The ones I have encountered aren't too difficult to release though. The idea here is allow the glove compartment door to open all of the way. Next remove the end cap on the right end of the dash. It comes off exactly like the fuse box cover on the driver's side.

      Once you have gained access to the glove compartment cavity, look inside, up above the upper right hand corner of the glove compartment opening. If you feel around you will find a rectangular relay-like module. It's about 2"x2"x1". The unit is also partially visible from the right end of the dash. Once you find it, you should be able to remove it by essentially pulling it out towards the back of the car. The base the module is plugged into should come with it. Separate the module from the base by pulling it out like a relay.

      The next step is to cut off pins 12, 15, and 17 at their bases on the module. Then you need to jump pins 15 and 17 to pin 14. There are two ways to do this:

      1) Solder a wire between pins 14, 15, and 17.
      2) You can open the module like a normal relay and inside you'll find a small PC board. Notice where all of the external connector pins attach to the PC board. You can solder the connectors that correspond to pins 14, 15, and 17 together. They are all right in a row and easily traced. Pin 17 is the second position in from the edge of the PC board. Position 3 is unused, 4 is pin 15, and 5 is pin 14.

      I've done both and I highly recommend you try method #1. The cover is VERY difficult to remove in one piece and there is plenty of room for a wire between the module and its base.

      All that's left now is to reassemble everything. Reattach the module to the base. It will probably take some patience to get the module and base seated back in their bracket. Notice that there are two cleats on one side of the base. These need to point downward when reinstalling the base and module. The goal is to get the cleats lined up with the cleat cut outs in the bracket. Once the cleats are lined up, you need to push the module / base assembly into the bracket by pushing it towards the front of the car. Once the module and base are reinstalled, close everything up and you are done.

      Some notes:

      If you want to be able to turn on the rear fog independent of the front fogs, you'll have to modify the control module. Personally I want to maintain this feature. Originally I wanted to restrict the fog lights from coming on without the running lights. But, there appears to be no way to do this without rewiring the wiring harness. This is out of the question for me.

      Remember that this modification may allow you to operate you lights in a way that is technically illegal. This will vary by state. For example, I've checked Wisconsin and Illinois vehicle lighting codes. In these states it appears to be legal to operate fog lights with or without running and / or headlights. It appears to be illegal to operate fogs with high and low beam headlights in Wisconsin and Illinois because it brings the total of "driving lights" beyond the legal limit of 4. Whatever the law, please remember to be courteous to fellow drives.

      For those of you who want to know more, here is what all of the pins on the module are for:


      Pin 1 - +12V pulse toggles front fogs
      Pin 2 - +12V line to rear fog
      Pin 3 - +12V pulse toggles read fog
      Pin 5 - +12V line to front fogs
      Pin 6 - Appears to be ground
      Pin 7 - Appears to be ground
      Pin 8 - +12V switched with the ignition
      Pin 9 - +12V switched with the ignition
      Pin 10 - Panel indicator light for front fogs
      Pin 11 - Panel indicator light for rear fog
      Pin 12 - Holding at +12V PREVENTS the front fogs from turning on (used to cut out front fogs when high beams are on)
      Pin 14 - +12V switched with the ignition
      Pin 15 - Holding at +12V ALLOWS the rear fog to turn on (used to cut out rear fog when high beams are on)
      Pin 17 - Holding at +12V ALLOWS front / rear fogs to turn on (used to prevent fogs from turning out with out the low beams

      original URL: http://www.audiworld.com/tech/ext11.shtml

      VAG COM services available, send a PM | Join the VWVortex Folding@Home team... save the world | Current Rides: 2010 S4 Prestige, 1999 TJ 4.0 Sport (It's FOR SALE, click here.) | Old Rides: 2001.5 A4 1.8TQMS GTRS, 1997 TJ 4.0 Sport, 1990 Corrado g60 StageIV | Lounging in a field with 726 sweater cows

    3. Member Scalzo44's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 20th, 2007
      Location
      Redmond
      Posts
      283
      Cars
      99.5 B5 A4 1.8T
      11-27-2007 07:00 PM #3
      I did this and it's pretty easy to do,

      It adds a nice unique touch

      Thanks


    4. Member pavao6911's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 9th, 2007
      Location
      Fall River
      Posts
      556
      Cars
      2007 VW GLI 2.0T/2001 Audi A4 1.8TQ
      12-03-2007 10:55 PM #4
      ok and in 99.5 and up how?

    5. Member .Mad Hatter.'s Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 18th, 2007
      Location
      Toronto
      Posts
      12,581
      Cars
      B5 A4, MK6 Jetta
      12-03-2007 11:12 PM #5
      Quote, originally posted by pavao6911 »
      ok and in 99.5 and up how?

      that write up is for 99.5 and up

      Quote Originally Posted by futur View Post
      who is fastest? if you guys didn't find out, what were you doing instead? patching floors? #mk3 #lulz # POR15 #umadbro #supercharger #thatsalottospendforjust8psi #justthetip #justkidding #noimnot
      podi.ca
      Scraped.Crusaders. l the.final.offset l flickr

    6. 12-04-2007 12:11 AM #6
      how about cars before 99.5? my fogs are built into my headlight, they dont seem to do much, but it would still look better

    7. Member .Mad Hatter.'s Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 18th, 2007
      Location
      Toronto
      Posts
      12,581
      Cars
      B5 A4, MK6 Jetta
      12-04-2007 12:12 AM #7
      Quote, originally posted by germankar »
      how about cars before 99.5? my fogs are built into my headlight, they dont seem to do much, but it would still look better

      probably not an option, and def. not worth it.

      Quote Originally Posted by futur View Post
      who is fastest? if you guys didn't find out, what were you doing instead? patching floors? #mk3 #lulz # POR15 #umadbro #supercharger #thatsalottospendforjust8psi #justthetip #justkidding #noimnot
      podi.ca
      Scraped.Crusaders. l the.final.offset l flickr

    8. 12-30-2008 06:36 PM #8
      Is this in the FAQ? I didn't see it...

    9. Moderator robbyb413's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 12th, 2002
      Location
      Longmeadow, MA / Boston, MA
      Posts
      16,180
      Cars
      2010 S4 Prestige, 1999 TJ 4.0, 2010 A4 P+ (Hers)
      12-31-2008 08:49 AM #9
      You're kidding right? The FAQ isn't very long, how could you miss it?
      VAG COM services available, send a PM | Join the VWVortex Folding@Home team... save the world | Current Rides: 2010 S4 Prestige, 1999 TJ 4.0 Sport (It's FOR SALE, click here.) | Old Rides: 2001.5 A4 1.8TQMS GTRS, 1997 TJ 4.0 Sport, 1990 Corrado g60 StageIV | Lounging in a field with 726 sweater cows

    10. 02-22-2009 01:48 PM #10
      im obviously new to the audi world, but i have a 99 a4, not sure if its the .5 or not but i opened the glove compartment and took off the side piece as directed, i came across a 12 prong relay. (might this be an indication that its the .0 not .5?)is it still possible to do this mod?

    11. 03-29-2009 06:57 PM #11
      Was working on this mod today: http://forums.fourtitude.com/zerothread?id=3093160

      Had a question though.. seeing as I stupidly made the mistake of cutting pin 14 along with 12, 15, and 17. I was wondering if I can just run 15/17 to either pins 8 or 9 since they are also both +12v on ignition, just like pin 14... Also, does anyone have a picture of their module after the mod? I just want to see how you cut the pins and did the job.

      Thank you.


    12. 03-30-2009 07:42 PM #12
      Quote, originally posted by Widescreen »
      Was working on this mod today: http://forums.fourtitude.com/zerothread?id=3093160

      Had a question though.. seeing as I stupidly made the mistake of cutting pin 14 along with 12, 15, and 17. I was wondering if I can just run 15/17 to either pins 8 or 9 since they are also both +12v on ignition, just like pin 14... Also, does anyone have a picture of their module after the mod? I just want to see how you cut the pins and did the job.

      Thank you.

      You have to cut it. Just do it!


    13. 03-31-2009 02:53 PM #13
      My problem was cutting pin 14.. now it no longer gets a 12v current to it.. I already cut everything

    14. Junior Member
      Join Date
      Dec 8th, 2011
      Location
      iowa
      Posts
      74
      Cars
      1998 audi A4 avant
      12-13-2011 11:25 AM #14
      anyone have any idea where id find a diy for isolating fogs on a 98 a4 avant?
      98' Audi a4 Quattro Avant 2.8L--
      94' BMW 318i-- Sold

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •