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    1. Member
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      05-05-2011 09:41 PM #596
      Quote Originally Posted by electrocreative View Post
      This thread has been a wealth of knowledge. I'm about to wrap up my project, but I want to make sure of one thing.

      I've read all 589! posts to this thread, but see no specific reference regarding alignment of the intermediate sprocket (right above the water pump pulley). I think I know the answer to this, but want to make absolutely certain.

      Is there any specific orientation or alignment of the intermediate sprocket in relation to the cam or crankshaft positions?

      Thanks.
      What "intermediate" sprocket are you talking about? The only things with teeth are the cam , water pump, and the crankshaft. Everything else is a smooth roller that touches the backside of the belt.
      Sent from my Apple Newton.

      Quote Originally Posted by JoeyVR6 View Post
      you didn't get ripped off, you got out smarted.
      congratulations.
      Quote Originally Posted by Genuine Rolla
      The 1.8T is God's chariot. It runs on the tears of virgins.

    2. Member builtvw's Avatar
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      05-06-2011 05:33 PM #597
      bump for myself

    3. n00b
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      2000 Jetta 1.8T Wolfsburg
      05-11-2011 10:17 AM #598
      1. I replaced timing belt & water pump (1.8 T)
      2. Drove car maybe 25 miles a few miles at the time
      3. Then had to replace cam chain tensioner (aftermarket with no solenoid control)
      4. Drove car 6 miles or so with all fine
      5. One week later crank engine and find much noise
      6. Check reveals that timing BELT is off one tooth and tensioner chain still appears to be ok

      why would it jump a tooth? is it coincidental with the tensioner replacement? and why would one tooth off make noise? one tooth does not cause valve interference, does it?
      thanks for any help

    4. Member
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      05-11-2011 10:30 AM #599
      Quote Originally Posted by haskinsgarage View Post
      1. I replaced timing belt & water pump (1.8 T)
      2. Drove car maybe 25 miles a few miles at the time
      3. Then had to replace cam chain tensioner (aftermarket with no solenoid control)
      4. Drove car 6 miles or so with all fine
      5. One week later crank engine and find much noise
      6. Check reveals that timing BELT is off one tooth and tensioner chain still appears to be ok

      why would it jump a tooth? is it coincidental with the tensioner replacement? and why would one tooth off make noise? one tooth does not cause valve interference, does it?
      thanks for any help
      That is odd. Which indicators did you use to determine that it was off by a tooth?
      Also, why are you using a non-VVT cam tensioner?
      Sent from my Apple Newton.

      Quote Originally Posted by JoeyVR6 View Post
      you didn't get ripped off, you got out smarted.
      congratulations.
      Quote Originally Posted by Genuine Rolla
      The 1.8T is God's chariot. It runs on the tears of virgins.

    5. n00b
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      05-12-2011 08:58 AM #600
      Quote Originally Posted by MarksManB View Post
      That is odd. Which indicators did you use to determine that it was off by a tooth?
      Also, why are you using a non-VVT cam tensioner?
      I used the marks on the exhaust cam at the valve cover and on the harmonic balancer and lower cover.
      I got the non-VVT part because it was sold to fit (EBAY) and I had thought the solenoid was to activate tension not valve timing. Another way of saying that I am an idiot.
      Thanks.

    6. Member
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      05-12-2011 10:32 AM #601
      Quote Originally Posted by haskinsgarage View Post
      I used the marks on the exhaust cam at the valve cover and on the harmonic balancer and lower cover.
      I got the non-VVT part because it was sold to fit (EBAY) and I had thought the solenoid was to activate tension not valve timing. Another way of saying that I am an idiot.
      Thanks.
      Those are good marks to use. I was just making sure you weren't using the flywheel as a reference. Are you going to get the VVT version to replace it?

      As far as being off a tooth, it's near impossible to jump a tooth once that belt is on with the tensioner. Have you fixed it yet?
      Sent from my Apple Newton.

      Quote Originally Posted by JoeyVR6 View Post
      you didn't get ripped off, you got out smarted.
      congratulations.
      Quote Originally Posted by Genuine Rolla
      The 1.8T is God's chariot. It runs on the tears of virgins.

    7. 05-16-2011 03:51 PM #602
      I have an 04 gti 1.8t and I am a mechanic for a living so I found this forum, thought wow this is well written. so I ordered all my parts t-belt, water pump, tensioned idler pulley and thermostat everything I would sell if I was doing a customer car. Came in this sat. to do it on my lift and air tools. it started out vary smooth, then I found the vagueness of this write up....who knew that the harmonic balancer and the bottom crank pulley for the t-belt were bolted together. I work on toyotas, hondas and nissans and normally I pull the crank pulley bolt and pull off the crank pulley then a gear slid onto a shaft. there is no pic of him pulling the four allens first, and it seems like an easy pic to take.. Anyway so when I took the nineteen out I worked the crank pulley off like I normally would then the bottom gear came off with it. At this point I didn't mark the belt yet I was pulling the gear off to mark it. So at this point I didn't the motor to tdc yet so I had a mini freak out, then went to ask another tech in my shop nobody had done this belt. I checked all-data and the net nothing helpful so we just used mechanics logic. I believe the the flywheel mark is tdc for the crank and I hope the cam mark it the tdc mark. So that's how I timed it from nothing. Also a tip for putting the belt on (no pics for this and its the hardest part) I had a lift so its easier for me but the tensioner going in last is the only way this works (hydraulic tensioner) the belt is so tight. I set the crank back a tooth then had someone hold a wrench on the cam so it would move I had to use a pry bar to pull up on the eccentric pulley then and only then could I slide the tensioner in and the marks be on. It runs fine but I haven't driven it much since I am selling it

      Is the flywheel a good mark?

    8. Member tractorsosa's Avatar
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      05-16-2011 10:52 PM #603
      Quote Originally Posted by rokkin View Post
      I have an 04 gti 1.8t and I am a mechanic for a living so I found this forum, thought wow this is well written. so I ordered all my parts t-belt, water pump, tensioned idler pulley and thermostat everything I would sell if I was doing a customer car. Came in this sat. to do it on my lift and air tools. it started out vary smooth, then I found the vagueness of this write up....who knew that the harmonic balancer and the bottom crank pulley for the t-belt were bolted together. I work on toyotas, hondas and nissans and normally I pull the crank pulley bolt and pull off the crank pulley then a gear slid onto a shaft. there is no pic of him pulling the four allens first, and it seems like an easy pic to take.. Anyway so when I took the nineteen out I worked the crank pulley off like I normally would then the bottom gear came off with it. At this point I didn't mark the belt yet I was pulling the gear off to mark it. So at this point I didn't the motor to tdc yet so I had a mini freak out, then went to ask another tech in my shop nobody had done this belt. I checked all-data and the net nothing helpful so we just used mechanics logic. I believe the the flywheel mark is tdc for the crank and I hope the cam mark it the tdc mark. So that's how I timed it from nothing. Also a tip for putting the belt on (no pics for this and its the hardest part) I had a lift so its easier for me but the tensioner going in last is the only way this works (hydraulic tensioner) the belt is so tight. I set the crank back a tooth then had someone hold a wrench on the cam so it would move I had to use a pry bar to pull up on the eccentric pulley then and only then could I slide the tensioner in and the marks be on. It runs fine but I haven't driven it much since I am selling it

      Is the flywheel a good mark?
      it is a good mark if is the oem and never has been removed or reinstalled but if is an aftermarket i dont think it does have the mark

      i think u took the pin before put everything on position that i why is tight just keep check it for a few more miles to make sure is not rubbing against something but my main concern will be if u did not damage the hydraulic tensioner already. but since u use ur common sense as a mechanic u should be good all the motors work the same way but all they ar built and set <> but u can also set the piston at tdc using the cilynder 1 and take the valve cover gasket to check the cam marks has to be 16 rolls distance betwen both cams ut one will always be lil bit offset

    9. Member
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      05-17-2011 10:48 AM #604
      Quote Originally Posted by rokkin View Post
      I have an 04 gti 1.8t and I am a mechanic for a living so I found this forum, thought wow this is well written. so I ordered all my parts t-belt, water pump, tensioned idler pulley and thermostat everything I would sell if I was doing a customer car. Came in this sat. to do it on my lift and air tools. it started out vary smooth, then I found the vagueness of this write up....who knew that the harmonic balancer and the bottom crank pulley for the t-belt were bolted together. I work on toyotas, hondas and nissans and normally I pull the crank pulley bolt and pull off the crank pulley then a gear slid onto a shaft. there is no pic of him pulling the four allens first, and it seems like an easy pic to take.. Anyway so when I took the nineteen out I worked the crank pulley off like I normally would then the bottom gear came off with it. At this point I didn't mark the belt yet I was pulling the gear off to mark it. So at this point I didn't the motor to tdc yet so I had a mini freak out, then went to ask another tech in my shop nobody had done this belt. I checked all-data and the net nothing helpful so we just used mechanics logic. I believe the the flywheel mark is tdc for the crank and I hope the cam mark it the tdc mark. So that's how I timed it from nothing. Also a tip for putting the belt on (no pics for this and its the hardest part) I had a lift so its easier for me but the tensioner going in last is the only way this works (hydraulic tensioner) the belt is so tight. I set the crank back a tooth then had someone hold a wrench on the cam so it would move I had to use a pry bar to pull up on the eccentric pulley then and only then could I slide the tensioner in and the marks be on. It runs fine but I haven't driven it much since I am selling it

      Is the flywheel a good mark?
      Sucks that you had probems with the write up. This was the first job I ever did to my 1.8t and the first thing I ever did under the hood and I got through it no problems.

      This reminds me of a theory I've heard many times before. People who have never fired a gun before tend to shoot better than those who have. Newbies, who have 0 experience, don't have preconceived notions or prior experience that they try to use in a new situation and they listen and follow directions literally without falling back on habits they haven't yet learned. Basically, because you are an experienced mechanic, you tried to use experience from working on a different engine to this one. Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to say that the write up is perfect and you were wrong. I'm only sharing my observations.
      Sent from my Apple Newton.

      Quote Originally Posted by JoeyVR6 View Post
      you didn't get ripped off, you got out smarted.
      congratulations.
      Quote Originally Posted by Genuine Rolla
      The 1.8T is God's chariot. It runs on the tears of virgins.

    10. 05-18-2011 09:59 PM #605
      What kit did you use for this change? i know its been a while since you have done this and im just wandering how it held up? If anyone can suggest any complete kits please do. I plan on doing this in a few weeks.

    11. Member
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      05-18-2011 10:21 PM #606
      Quote Originally Posted by Prime_Time_Bora View Post
      What kit did you use for this change? i know its been a while since you have done this and im just wandering how it held up? If anyone can suggest any complete kits please do. I plan on doing this in a few weeks.
      I went with this ECS kit.
      But this one from MJM is just as good.

      You will need coolant if you do either the T-stat or the water pump. They have kits with G12 also.
      Sent from my Apple Newton.

      Quote Originally Posted by JoeyVR6 View Post
      you didn't get ripped off, you got out smarted.
      congratulations.
      Quote Originally Posted by Genuine Rolla
      The 1.8T is God's chariot. It runs on the tears of virgins.

    12. Member builtvw's Avatar
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      05-20-2011 05:25 PM #607
      bump for me

    13. 05-21-2011 07:04 PM #608
      Check out this write-up for a TT. Lots of pics much more detail for those of who are less experienced. Car is slightly different but I believe the steps are pretty much the same.

      http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=1961739

    14. Banned
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      05-21-2011 07:09 PM #609
      Quote Originally Posted by electrocreative View Post
      This thread has been a wealth of knowledge. I'm about to wrap up my project, but I want to make sure of one thing.

      I've read all 589! posts to this thread, but see no specific reference regarding alignment of the intermediate sprocket (right above the water pump pulley). I think I know the answer to this, but want to make absolutely certain.

      Is there any specific orientation or alignment of the intermediate sprocket in relation to the cam or crankshaft positions?

      Thanks.

      this is for an AEB motor. and no, there is no relation. the intermediate shaft operates the oil pump, and it is non-timed for this procedure.

    15. Member
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      05-21-2011 08:59 PM #610
      the T10092 special tool is required if you are not replacing the tensioner, right?
      Quote Originally Posted by a sneaky panda View Post
      ....a jetta rally car is like a fat girl trying to sprint in the Olympics..

    16. Member TheBossQ's Avatar
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      05-21-2011 09:28 PM #611
      First, you should be replacing the tensioner. Do not re-use it.

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fpq9lgrygbg

      This is what these garbage tensioners are known for. Once you lose tension, that's when belts skip teeth, shear teeth ... and that's when worlds collide. Or rather your valves and your pistons.

      But ... if you insist ... you do not have to have the special tool.

      M5 x 55 stud (that's what worked on my AWP engine) threaded into the tensioner body, washer and nut will allow you to compress the tensioner rod and de-tension the belt.

      But do yourself a favor and replace the tensioner.

    17. Member
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      05-21-2011 09:51 PM #612
      Quote Originally Posted by TheBossQ View Post
      First, you should be replacing the tensioner. Do not re-use it.

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fpq9lgrygbg

      This is what these garbage tensioners are known for. Once you lose tension, that's when belts skip teeth, shear teeth ... and that's when worlds collide. Or rather your valves and your pistons.

      But ... if you insist ... you do not have to have the special tool.

      M5 x 55 stud (that's what worked on my AWP engine) threaded into the tensioner body, washer and nut will allow you to compress the tensioner rod and de-tension the belt.

      But do yourself a favor and replace the tensioner.
      oh no dont get me wrong i am replacing it, im doing the whole kit, water pump, roller, mount bolts, but i was reading the bentley and says you need the T10092 to release the tension off the belt and then put the pin, so that led me to the question, since i am replacing the tensioner i should not need the t10092
      Quote Originally Posted by a sneaky panda View Post
      ....a jetta rally car is like a fat girl trying to sprint in the Olympics..

    18. Member TheBossQ's Avatar
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      05-21-2011 10:10 PM #613
      Quote Originally Posted by izz View Post
      oh no dont get me wrong i am replacing it, im doing the whole kit, water pump, roller, mount bolts, but i was reading the bentley and says you need the T10092 to release the tension off the belt and then put the pin, so that led me to the question, since i am replacing the tensioner i should not need the t10092
      Correct. I just used what I posted. Even though I replaced the tensioner, I found the easiest way to get the belt off was by de-tensioning. Some people are cutting them off, or prying them off. I didn't want to do that.

    19. Member crazymoforz's Avatar
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      05-24-2011 02:57 AM #614
      just un-bolt the tensioner. why are people prying them. lol.
      Clutch, Cams, Engine Tuning, Coilovers etc. Call (714)997-5842
      www.FourSeasonTuning.com

    20. 05-24-2011 05:13 PM #615
      Doing this right now. Stupid question but where is the TDC plug?! Can't find it.

    21. 05-24-2011 05:41 PM #616
      nm found it.

    22. Member builtvw's Avatar
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      05-28-2011 02:00 AM #617
      haha i didn't listen to the note with the little black bracket and my belt flew off...but i found it good thing cause its brand new stupid things cost 50bucks.

    23. Member
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      05-28-2011 09:57 AM #618
      Quote Originally Posted by builtvw View Post
      haha i didn't listen to the note with the little black bracket and my belt flew off...but i found it good thing cause its brand new stupid things cost 50bucks.
      accessory belt, I assume?
      Sent from my Apple Newton.

      Quote Originally Posted by JoeyVR6 View Post
      you didn't get ripped off, you got out smarted.
      congratulations.
      Quote Originally Posted by Genuine Rolla
      The 1.8T is God's chariot. It runs on the tears of virgins.

    24. Member
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      06-03-2011 09:33 PM #619
      How long would this take for a skilled mechanic who has never worked on volkswagen but has done timing belt changes on other cars?

    25. 06-08-2011 10:38 AM #620
      Great tutorial! I'm looking at ordering from ECS tuning. What do you recommend - an ECS brand kit for $249.95, or an OEM kit for $579.95?

      http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...Engine/Timing/

    26. 06-18-2011 05:33 AM #621
      ok so I have a 2004 AWP. I did the timing belt tonight and now my car idles like crap and wants to stall... I did the line on the valve cover and the line on the flywheel. It seems to be right there... What gives? will a tooth or two bend the valves? How do I know what way to move the belt? HELP!!!!

    27. Member
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      06-19-2011 05:58 AM #622
      Quote Originally Posted by Irishguy951 View Post
      ok so I have a 2004 AWP. I did the timing belt tonight and now my car idles like crap and wants to stall... I did the line on the valve cover and the line on the flywheel. It seems to be right there... What gives? will a tooth or two bend the valves? How do I know what way to move the belt? HELP!!!!
      did you crank it over several times by hand when you were done?

      1 tooth, no. 2 teeth, maybe/yes. 3 teeth, definately and wouldn't idle.

      Line up the flywheel first, then check the valve cover/cam gear.
      Sent from my Apple Newton.

      Quote Originally Posted by JoeyVR6 View Post
      you didn't get ripped off, you got out smarted.
      congratulations.
      Quote Originally Posted by Genuine Rolla
      The 1.8T is God's chariot. It runs on the tears of virgins.

    28. Member tractorsosa's Avatar
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      06-21-2011 09:30 AM #623
      Quote Originally Posted by jonpwn View Post
      How long would this take for a skilled mechanic who has never worked on volkswagen but has done timing belt changes on other cars?
      in the shop should take u about 3 hrs or lil less in the driveway maybe 4 hrs or lil more

    29. Member
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      07-03-2011 12:07 AM #624
      After reading this guide, I replaced the T-belt on a 2002 Jetta today. The car belongs to my boss, the station manager of the airline I work for. her waterpump failed on Friday and I ordered the kit from dieselgeek.com who overnighted it to me.

      She's lucky that her Maintenance Manager just happens to do TDI timing belts on the side. I pulled her car into the hangar today and got into it. Three hours later, it was purring like new and pumping coolant. I found the impeller actually broke into two large chunks and I fished a few smaller chips of plastic out of the block.

      It's a 2002, but only has 60,000 miles on it. Ive done at least 500 TDI timing belt jobs since I started working on them in 2001, but this was my first 1.8t. The guide helped a lot in understanding how the timing marks, tensioners and belts differ from the TDI. It was quite a bit easier than a TDI, but very different and took me longer than a TDI.

      Hopefully the metal impeller pump will let her get another decade or more out of this car with no problems.

      The pump:





      Ive never seen such a spectacular failure of a pump on a TDI. they leak, sometimes they even spin loosely on the shaft, but Ive never seen one actually crack.

      Thanks for the guide!

    30. 07-04-2011 01:43 AM #625
      Crap, 18 Pages.........

      Some thoughts:
      T-Gassers run hotter than TDI's, hence the plastic impeller being more fragile and oil coking problems... (Popped a WP off of a 11mm/.205 ALH TDI at 200k miles and the plastic impeller was fine.) As for the seals, I am not sure how hard they are to replace on the AWP but I would replace them. (I also have bad luck with the newer Teflon crank seals, 038103085E, and prefer the older rubber/spring lip variety, 054115147B.) An interesting Notion about unbolting the tranny side mount to tilt the engine enough to get the engine mount back in, this can also give you more room to work with when installing the belt/changing seals/WP. (Good TIP!) If you have a leaking front crank seal, Metalnerd sells a NICE crank holder that can be used to break loose the 19mm bolt. If you google FranksVWtdi, he also has a "kit" that includes the seal, sealant, and crank holder if you need to replace this seal. The #3265 seal installer tool is also nice to use, it's plastic but I don't foresee wearing it out...

      FYI: Integrated Engineering sells a manual tensioner for the timing belt, (beware of the gap where the OEM tensioner goes).

      I have done many timing belts on TDI's, 951's, 968's, and a B5 Passat 1.8T... now I am about to do a GTI 20th 1.8T. Different cars have their own peculiarities but align the marks and hand turn the engine 2 or 3 times and check the marks with each rotation then adjust the belt if needed. If everything is good then button her back up. For Dieselgeek parts!

    31. Member MMJJTI's Avatar
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      07-15-2011 08:38 AM #626
      I did this job yesterday, only real issue was aligning the tensioner to mount it, other than that everything went smooth and she runs great, thanks for a great diy

    32. 07-23-2011 09:51 PM #627
      Beside using the flywheel method of timing the belt where are the marks on the crank pulley and the block, I'm replacing mine on 1.8T 2002 tomorrow and my TB is loose due to a broken tensioner, so marking the belt is not going to work for me because it is loose now and it may have jumped few teeth arround.

    33. 07-25-2011 01:45 AM #628
      Never mind I turned the crank shaft with old belt on to align the cam poley with the mark on the head, and then removed spark plug from 1st cyl and stick a long screwdriver to rest on piston 1 and turned crankshaft to the highest point with belt removed, actually the timing was off about 3 teeth had to keep turning the crankshaft alone for about 10 degrees more to acheive the highest point on the piston dome, it worked pretty good, the engine is even quiter now.
      Last edited by latreche34; 07-25-2011 at 01:54 AM.

    34. Junior Member vwdave92's Avatar
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      07-25-2011 01:56 PM #629
      thanks all... did it this weekend

      6 hours... no real issues

      thanks

      dave

    35. Member Jm-Productions's Avatar
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      07-29-2011 07:19 PM #630
      I match crankshaft and cam there a lined up...but could find TDC on flywheel did a lot of turns and couldnt find it.I have Stage 1 Sachs clutch and flywheel...i start tge engine and it does not start up...you think that could be the problem that the started of the far could not find TDC on Trans alined with the others 2 marks and it does not let the car stars...help me please!... Cannot figure out wats wrong with it.

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