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    1. 09-14-2009 12:53 AM #426
      I'm in the middle of doing my TB right now as a result of a bad water pump (46k miles and it's cracked with chunks broken off).
      Question: I set the timing by lining up the flywheel marks exactly as told in the DIY. I also marked the belt and gears with paint marks before removal. I have everything removed now, and have replaced the water pump. I'm ready to put it all back together, and noticed that the flywheel mark is no longer lined up. Is this normal? I don't think I did anything "wrong", but do I need to do anything special other than line up the new belt (with transferred marks) with the marks on the gears?
      Thanks in advance for the help!


      Modified by jpepin at 9:55 PM 9-13-2009

    2. 09-19-2009 10:11 AM #427
      Anyone ever use the contitech timing belt water pump kit? If so do you know what actually comes with it? Bap Geon has it for $215
      Thank you, Andy

    3. 09-19-2009 05:09 PM #428
      Quote, originally posted by jpepin »
      I'm in the middle of doing my TB right now as a result of a bad water pump (46k miles and it's cracked with chunks broken off).
      Question: I set the timing by lining up the flywheel marks exactly as told in the DIY. I also marked the belt and gears with paint marks before removal. I have everything removed now, and have replaced the water pump. I'm ready to put it all back together, and noticed that the flywheel mark is no longer lined up. Is this normal? I don't think I did anything "wrong", but do I need to do anything special other than line up the new belt (with transferred marks) with the marks on the gears?
      Thanks in advance for the help!

      Well, I figured it out myself. I made sure the marks i transferred to the new belt lined up. Once the belt was on, I cranked it by hand to ensure that the camgear mark and the flywheel mark both lined up exactly, which they did. Good thing I followed the advice to mark the old belt before removing it!

    4. 09-20-2009 01:02 AM #429
      Quote, originally posted by Music Man »
      Anyone ever use the contitech timing belt water pump kit? If so do you know what actually comes with it? Bap Geon has it for $215
      Thank you, Andy

      I don't have a Bap Geon in my area, but I got this deal from ecstuning.com:
      http://www.ecstuning.com/Volks...S2286/ for $239 with free shipping. Had everything I needed for a complete job, except for the G12 coolant. Not sure how it matches up to the kit you're looking at, but here are the components...
      Kit Contents
      Description Brand Qty
      OE Timing Belt Continental - 1
      Timing Belt Tensioner Roller Ina - 1
      Timing Belt Tensioner With Small Roller Mission Trading Company -1
      Water Pump With O-Ring Graf - 1
      Thermostat - 87C Vemo - 1
      Accessory Drive Belt Continental - 1
      Thermostat O-Ring CRP - 1
      Bolt M12x1.5x65 Genuine Volkswagen Audi -2
      Shoulder Self Locking Bolt -Genuine Volkswagen Audi - 2
      Camshaft Seal Elring -1
      Crankshaft Seal - Priced Each Victor Reinz -1
      Thermostat Housing Meyle - 1

    5. 09-22-2009 12:28 PM #430
      Nice write up but the wheels are not that nice as you claim Enkei= Japanese>>>

    6. 10-16-2009 08:27 AM #431
      I used this back in February for my timing belt job. A few days ago I started hearing a faint rubbing. From I could make out, it was coming from the timing area. When I got my oil changed, I asked the VW tech to take a look at it. He came back and said the tensioner pulley and idler pulley were making the noise. Said I should replace them...again. Will I be able to swap out the tensioner and tensioner pulley WITHOUT taking the timing belt off? Anyone ever done this? Also, anyone have these two items fail, or begin to fail after only 8 months? Thanks.
      -MP
      My Build
      05 GLI | Uni 630 BT File | T3s60

    7. Member MechEngg's Avatar
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      Jan 12th, 2009
      Location
      Calgary, AB
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      10-16-2009 10:27 AM #432
      So you did your own timing belt change in the freezing cold weather and you don't change your own oil??

    8. 10-16-2009 10:30 AM #433
      Hahaha! I got an oil service plan with my GLI when I bought it. Oil changes are free for me... Timing belt changes, not so much the free.
      -MP
      My Build
      05 GLI | Uni 630 BT File | T3s60

    9. Member MechEngg's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 12th, 2009
      Location
      Calgary, AB
      Posts
      6,815
      10-16-2009 10:34 AM #434
      haha cheers. I got really confused there for a second. I was like, my sister cant turn on our tv in our house but she can change oil on her beater haha. (TRUE STORY)
      Anyways something to check would be that the belt hasnt travelled inwards towards the block and started to rub on something. i have heard of that before and it makes a rubbing noise


      Modified by MechEngg at 8:36 AM 10-16-2009

    10. 10-19-2009 01:05 PM #435
      I have never found these Timming Belts to have cracks at all!! I always find them to rip the teeth clean off the belt!! So be-care-ful on judging the belt from the out side like a old rabbit T-belt.. It dont work like that any more. The one i just did looked like it had just been done recently and yet it took off 12 teeth!! Bam! happy little dents in the pistons.. ouch Just for info car had 89K on it when it did this, so I would mos-def change these belts around 70-75k

    11. 10-19-2009 01:14 PM #436
      After a T-Belt fails.. Have you ever found that the head was OK after this?? I talked to a local machine shop and they told me that quite a few have come in with no problems at all,, no bent valves.. Have you encountered this? Just wondering..

    12. Member dococ's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 21st, 2008
      Location
      Upstate NY
      Posts
      295
      Cars
      2005 GTI X2
      11-15-2009 09:11 PM #437
      Finally did mine (05 GTI - AWP 65K miles). Took about 10 hours off and on - 4 hours to get the old belt off. Zeusenergy's suggestion about removing hard charge pipe was key. Had to jack the engine several inches up to completely remove the engine mount bracket - engine mount was already out of the car.
      Bought a new water pump (HEPU) to replace the existing pump but the original OEM pump already had a metal impeller! PN was 06A 121 031C - can't find this in PartsLink so I don't know which vehicle/engine this is from.
      Biggest difficulty was getting new belt on - old belt was stretched approx 1/2 tooth (from CAM to CRANK marks) so new belt was really tight - after lining all the marks up and installing tensioner, the idler pulley was the last to be installed. Wedged it so I could start the screw threads and then tightened it into place.
      BTW the VW tool (T10092) used to compress the tensioner worked nicely.

    13. 12-26-2009 08:07 PM #438
      I'm in the middle of this job right now... The motor mount makes me want to go out and kill

    14. 12-26-2009 08:11 PM #439
      x2
      Are you going to do the cam and crank seals? They came in my kit, but with as much headache as this has been so far, I'm thinking I'm going to wait on them.
      At least I'll know all the tricks next time!
      '04 GTI 1.8T - Long Gone
      '88 Samurai - 1.6 N/A

    15. 12-26-2009 08:24 PM #440
      I didn't buy the seals, but I'm thinking with how much of a pain this is, I should probably do them, so I don't have to go back and do it again.

    16. 12-26-2009 08:30 PM #441
      I read the crank is a beast and requires a new crank bolt. (Am I right?)
      What the heck would you even use to stop the crankshaft from advancing while you got the bolt off?

      I also read this in a thread... "pppplleasseee dont change out your cam seal, if its not leaking... do you have any idea how hard it is to get that dam intake camshaft back into place? I still can't get it back on till this day. camshaft off allocation, whatever... And i also stripped my screws camshaft screws. did u know that i am screwed now? " http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4443273
      I guess I'm at the point where I'm deciding whether I'm going to do them or not. I can leave the car apart this week and continue next weekend if need be, but I'd really like an idea of what I'm looking at and can't seem to find much in the way of conclusive information on all those seals and their accompanying labor insanity...
      '04 GTI 1.8T - Long Gone
      '88 Samurai - 1.6 N/A

    17. Member Andy8's Avatar
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      Dec 7th, 2007
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      Cars
      04'jetta GLS
      12-27-2009 07:28 PM #442
      i dont know if anyone has done this or mentioned it in this thread but for the tesioner giving people trouble whn trying to put the tensioner in. insteaded of fighting the timing belt i used one big zip-tie and puwraped it around the belt and tightened it to pull it away from where the tensioner must go once i did that it was a direct bolt on affair with no trouble at all.

    18. 12-28-2009 03:46 PM #443
      Could someone tell me what the lever/handle in the 4th photo, step#5, is/does? It is the cast aluminum piece with all the numbers and the audi symbol on it right in the middle of the photo.
      Just got the car and it doesn't have a manual and could not find any info with a search just came across this photo reading all the posts.
      Thanks


      Modified by motorowlands at 6:00 AM 12-29-2009

    19. Member Andy8's Avatar
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      Dec 7th, 2007
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      Cars
      04'jetta GLS
      12-28-2009 06:37 PM #444
      part of the shifting mechanism

    20. 12-29-2009 12:39 PM #445
      Quote, originally posted by Andy8 »
      part of the shifting mechanism

      What does it do when moved between the two positions? It has to change something?
      Thanks

    21. 12-29-2009 05:24 PM #446
      Quote, originally posted by motorowlands »
      What does it do when moved between the two positions? It has to change something?
      Thanks

      Gears?

      Couldn't resist!
      '04 GTI 1.8T - Long Gone
      '88 Samurai - 1.6 N/A

    22. Member Bajabug72's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 23rd, 2006
      Location
      Gadsden, AL
      Posts
      307
      Cars
      06 GTI 2.0T 6MT Reflex Silver. 85 GTI 8v.
      12-30-2009 12:13 AM #447
      just finished doin the TB on my 02 GTI. not as bad as i was expecting. started at about 11:00 am and finished right @ 10:00 pm, but I ate, messed around with some other stuff, etc. actual wrench time was roughly 8 hours or less and thats taking my time. I've done one on a 2.0 AEG, but this is the first time on a 1.8t. mine has a FMIC and some other stuff so I didnt have to worry about the pancake charge pipe or whatever for the stock SMIC. biggest pains were the mount and the crank pulley. the mount would not come off until I got the belt loose and the tensioner off. I was finally able to work the mount back in after it was all back together. the crank pulley refused to part ways with the crank. I had to pry it off with a crow bar and then straighten the lower cover back up when I got it off. while out on my test drive after making sure all was good, I schooled a Tiburon. he didnt have a chance.

    23. 01-03-2010 06:51 PM #448
      Is it possible the TDC mark isn't as pronounced on the flywheel? I've got the cam gear set to TDC for sure, but the TDC mark on the flywheel looks like it's just lightly stamped on mine? Should it be a deep groove like I see in all the pictures I've found, or could it just be the stamped line? I'm so clueless at this point... Every other vehicle I've done this on, it seemed like there was a very pronounced mark; every single picture I find of TDC marks on here or the web, it shows a groove, not just a stamped line. On this ridiculous car all I can see is a stamped line and I can barely see it anyway! I've gotta get down at a funky angle where my chin is touching the battery to be able to see down there.
      I got everything off kilter with the 'bicycle chain' method and need to get it all back in sync. The stamped line is all I can find, is that correct? 'Bout to go nuts here...
      '04 GTI 1.8T - Long Gone
      '88 Samurai - 1.6 N/A

    24. Member Andaloons's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 16th, 2004
      Location
      Texas
      Posts
      1,298
      Cars
      2004 GLI 02M; 1997 Ford F-150
      01-03-2010 06:59 PM #449
      When I replaced my cylinder head, I tried to use the TDC mark on the flywheel too and I couldn't see diddly squat!
      So, I went ahead and used the "dipstick in cylinder 1" method and that worked fine for me. I just cranked back and forth until the dipstick was at the very highest position and went from there. No problems now for over 40,000 miles. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Please vote for a Maestro Tuning Sub-Forum!
      PM me for Bentley repair manual PDF.

    25. 01-03-2010 07:08 PM #450
      Whoa. Ok, this one is a new one for me...
      Pull cylinder 1's spark plug to do this? Cylinder 1 is on the end closest to the timing belt, right?
      '04 GTI 1.8T - Long Gone
      '88 Samurai - 1.6 N/A

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