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    1. 07-07-2006 02:09 PM #1
      DIY on the oil pan for the 2.0L MKIV even though it's essentially the same thing as bhb399mm's DIY for the VR6.

      So bam like in the other DIY by bhb399mm, you'll need:
      -16mm and 19mm sockets
      -Socket extention bar
      -A ball headed 5mm allen bit or key NOTE: Recommended: 10mm flex or swivel socket
      -Bit/Socket driver
      -Rubber mallet or hammer + hockey puck
      -New oil pan and sealant
      Optional: New oil, filter, hacksaw.
      I bought the oil pan and sealant from ECS for $117 shipped.

      Well of course, you must start with this, put on some tunes!

      So of course make sure the car is secure where it is chocks the rears and all that good stuff. If you couldn't find a ball headed allen bit like me, you can improvise.

      HOWEVER. Upon replacement of the infamous two bolts near the tranny, the use of the allen key method may end up stripping the bolt heads. For this reason, I suggest using the following combination:

      The 10mm flex head is available at Sears and is completely worth it.
      Make sure you drain your oil too!
      There is a pan cover with a bolt on the front side and two push in fasteners on the back. Remove this.

      Remove the 5mm hex bolts around the pan, there are two that are hidden next to the transmission, use your improvised or nicely bought tool.

      There are three 16mm transgina bolts you need to remove.

      A rubber mallet was no where to be found, so again improvisation is the name of the game. I used a NHL practice hockey puck that hit me in the head a few years ago at a game and a hammer to break the pan loose.

      Cleaning up of the old sealant was accomplished with help of Denatured Alcohol. Make sure all of the old sealant is removed.

      Get the pretty new pan, dress it up with a 2 - 3mm bead of new sealant, do the same on the block, running it on the inside of the bolt holes. Make sure the surface on the block is clean!

      Do the pan up with the 5mm's using either the ball head or regular, then do the 3 tranny bolts. Torque them to spec if you're into that sort of thing (I am after stripping the drain plug).
      11 ft lbs on the pan to block bolts
      33 ft lbs on the pan to tranny
      22 ft lbs on the plug.
      I believe you can refill the engine after 30minutes but DO NOT run it for at least 12 hours to allow the sealant to properly cure.
      Modified by caliginousface at 6:53 PM 7-11-2006

      Modified by caliginousface at 9:47 PM 7-11-2006

    2. Member J.Owen's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 31st, 2001
      '05.5 A4,'13 Pathfinder
      07-07-2006 02:37 PM #2
      hmmm, i want an oil pan shield. mine just hangs out there to dry.

      Expenses in F1 have gone down since the 1960s because teams don't need an extra pit crew to help the driver carry around his balls when he is not in the car.

    3. 08-24-2006 01:44 AM #3
      after 2 pans i went with the steel reinforced one, for $10 cheaper

    4. 08-24-2006 02:47 AM #4
      awesome write up....

    5. Member vasillalov's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 4th, 2003
      Chicago, IL
      2008 BMW 335i
      08-24-2006 08:46 AM #5
      Good stuff! This will be usefull for anyone doing a turbo setup and tapping the oil lines to the pan. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      let me see if I can get it to stick.

      Modified by vasillalov at 8:47 AM 8-24-2006
      Quote Originally Posted by MAG58 View Post
      Please consider your audience before saying something sensible. 80% of TCL drivers were actually banned from Formula 1 for being too fast.
      A turbocharger is a device in where exhaust gases go in, witchcraft happens, and then you go faster.

    6. Member chrissor's Avatar
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      May 5th, 2004
      08-24-2006 11:05 AM #6
      gloves are for sissy's just kidding, good diy [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    7. Member Fire32NJetta's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 17th, 2004
      2003 Jetta TDI
      08-24-2006 12:38 PM #7
      well i have a pan gasket for my mk3 is sealant still reccommended or is it an alternative to useing a gasket

    8. Member 16vsilverstreak's Avatar
      Join Date
      Dec 5th, 2001
      Bristol, TN
      '82 2.0 16v Rabbit truck, 2009 2.0t 4motion Tiguan
      10-04-2006 11:38 PM #8
      MKIII use gasket IVs use sealant.

    9. 11-16-2006 02:18 AM #9
      ol thread with helpful information..... bump it up....

    10. 11-22-2006 01:11 PM #10
      Straight to my watched topics [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    11. 11-22-2006 03:11 PM #11

      You should circle around each hole with sealer. Don't just run it along the inside.

    12. 11-22-2006 08:22 PM #12
      I just used this DIY but just out of curiosity- What happens (or could happen) if you don't wait 12hours for the sealant to set????

    13. Member ENRGZR's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 11th, 2006
      Kunia, Hi.
      87 GTI, 91 Golf, 99.5 Jetta, 07 Rabbit, 13 Focus ST
      11-30-2006 12:55 PM #13
      I can picture liquid pushing out where the sealant hasn't set.
      AKeuro / CCA Motorsport / Air by Santi / Fifteen52 / C2 / Trac Wrap
      Quote Originally Posted by 5P4RK4 View Post
      A dozen 1000 miles is 120,000 not 12000, thats 1.2 1000 miles.
      edit. wow I fail. Im going to leave that there to remind myself not to do math.

    14. 12-09-2006 05:43 PM #14
      what tool do you need to remove this bolt? 10mm allen?
      i found out that jiffy lube stripped my pan, so i'm doing this myself, and really overdue for an oil change

    15. Member snwsurfer's Avatar
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      May 7th, 2002
      Lombard, IL
      12-09-2006 06:25 PM #15
      Just used this today in the school parking lot... gotta love flying ice chunks on the freeway.
      I'm not sure what size that is.. my car never came with that steel pan... I think it's time for a dieselgeek skidplate

    16. 12-11-2006 03:23 AM #16
      Quote, originally posted by klee »
      what tool do you need to remove this bolt? 10mm allen?
      i found out that jiffy lube stripped my pan, so i'm doing this myself, and really overdue for an oil change

      no one?

    17. 12-29-2006 03:21 PM #17
      I ended up using an allen key I believe. Not sure on the size though. The new pan wouldn't accomodate the pan cover though.

    18. 01-16-2007 01:37 PM #18
      Word to the wise, when you buy the flex 10mm socket, MAKE SURE you buy the 1/4 drive version, not the 3/8's like I did
      The 3/8's drive one won't even fit up one of the tranny/pan holes
      I like to ride my bicycle....

      99.5 2.0 GTI - I hate it, but its paid off and has heated seats.

    19. 02-24-2007 12:04 PM #19
      What did you use on the hidden bolt closer to the front of the car cuz i cant get that one off someone help me out

    20. 04-23-2007 01:21 PM #20
      thanks for the write up...i replaced my oilpan last week....used a hybrid pan from ECS...
      thanks again!

    21. Member SLVR SLUG's Avatar
      Join Date
      Dec 9th, 2006
      2004 Golf 2.0T 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer 4x4
      11-18-2007 12:14 PM #21
      * book mark* im def keepin this around for when i switch my pan over to a pre tapped one for my turbo setup. thats right i said it. pre tapped. compliments of black forest industries. http://store.blackforestindust....html
      the new vortex sucks!

      R.I.P. #2688... you will be missed.

    22. 11-18-2007 03:11 PM #22
      Your welcome for the unarchive .

    23. Member SLVR SLUG's Avatar
      Join Date
      Dec 9th, 2006
      2004 Golf 2.0T 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer 4x4
      11-18-2007 11:34 PM #23
      the new vortex sucks!

      R.I.P. #2688... you will be missed.

    24. 05-16-2008 11:29 PM #24
      Hello, what type of sealant should I be looking for in the store?

    25. 05-25-2008 01:20 AM #25
      hey, i am in the middle of this DIY and im stuck trying to get the old oil pan off the car. I have removed all screws connecting the two but it just wont budge. I have tried a hammer to wood, a mini sledge hammer to wood., and direct blows. It just wont come off. Any ideas how I get it off?

    26. 05-25-2008 11:57 AM #26
      anybody have any ideas?

    27. 05-25-2008 03:35 PM #27
      suggestions please i dont want to ruin my ****

    28. 05-25-2008 06:37 PM #28
      haha, i was missing the four bolts above the tranny bolts. they we're hidden way up in there. when i took those off it pretty much released with no issue......

    29. Member ravenephialtes's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 11th, 2005
      Sheboygan, WI
      2006 Mk4 GTI 1.8T
      07-16-2008 11:44 PM #29
      just replaced my oil pan today with a hybrid one. awesome right up... but oddly enought.. i didnt need the flex socket... all i used was a extension bar and a normal socket... had absoultly no problems... [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] for a great write-up!!!
      1979 Rabbit - R.I.P.
      1997 GTI VR6 - Sold
      2000 Jetta 2.Slooo - Sold
      2006 GTI 1.8T - Current

    30. Member 00_Bora's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 15th, 2005
      2014 Jetta Hybrid SE - 2007 Audi A4 S-Line
      07-17-2008 02:13 PM #30
      i bought the flex socket but it failed me. I could not have it sit flat on the head of the bolt....a think allen key with a handle actually got the hidden bolts out for me instead. This was a very easy install, did it in the middle of winter.
      FYI be generous when spreading the sealant. Id rather have too much than not enough.
      also invest in a skid plate

    31. 01-16-2009 05:16 PM #31
      In case anyone was still wondering -- it's an 8mm hex key to remove the oil pan cover. I didn't test this but I'm changing my oil pan now and if you really want it looks like you can just rip it off and still change the pan. Of course that means you can't replace the cover...
      Decided I'd answer the question since I had to go out and buy a hex set in order to find out.
      Also, get a ratchet bit for the 5mm bolts. I tried using a tiny allen key and it sucked big time.

    32. Member jettatech's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 25th, 2001
      85 ABAT,10 CCTA Tigger
      01-17-2009 09:50 AM #32
      There's no need to put sealant on the block side, just ensure it's clean. Using too much sealant could lead to issues. You really dont want the sealer going in the bolt holes, or the excessive sealant breaking off in the pan, clogging the sump.

    33. 01-21-2009 11:13 PM #33
      Anyone know the part number for the steel/metal oil pan cover....let my brother borrow my car somehow he didnt hear it fall or drag and it basically scrapped off all the info on short i need a part number

    34. Member sgolf2000's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 2nd, 2003
      Baltimore, MD
      2000 golf 8v turbo
      01-22-2009 12:24 AM #34
      Quote, originally posted by noky »
      Also, get a ratchet bit for the 5mm bolts. I tried using a tiny allen key and it sucked big time.

      or cut an allen off and stick in a drill, cuts bolt removal and install time in like a third.
      f.s. mk4 avh complete head, intake and exhaust manifolds

    35. Member tonyb2580's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 22nd, 2006
      Lauderdale approved
      02-25-2009 10:44 AM #35
      hi i have a very simple question.. sorry to resurrect an old thread... my oil pan is leaking... not much but slowly... my friend said i need an oil pan gasket... i read here that you replace the whole oil pan and use sealant? is this correct? i have 2004 jetta 2.0.. thanks guys

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