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    1. 02-07-2005 05:20 PM #101
      Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD »
      Didnt know you were staying with the 1.8 Stroke.Rule of thumb is the greater the rod length the better the rod ratio.
      Should be fine

      Yeah, same stroke, but little larger piston. One more question. "Better the rod ratio." What does that mean? Basically, in laymen's terms, what exactly is the benefit of good rod ratio??

    2. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      02-07-2005 05:34 PM #102
      Quote, originally posted by Corrado79 »
      Yeah, same stroke, but little larger piston. One more question. "Better the rod ratio." What does that mean? Basically, in laymen's terms, what exactly is the benefit of good rod ratio??

      Rod Ratio = Rod Length/Stroke
      Since your stroke isnt changing (86.4mm) then the only thing you can do to increase your rod ratio is to increase the length of the con rod.A longer con rod creates a narrower Rod : Piston angle when the piston is halfway down the cylinder ,causing less friction which means a smaller force is needed to move the piston.With a larger rod : piston angle there is more vibration in the engine.
      Just simple mechanics

    3. 02-07-2005 07:35 PM #103
      if i dont need the bbm water neck seeing that i will be runing a G not the twin screw. then where do i plug in the sensors ? i noticed that my 2L 16v head has two sensors on the side of the head , ( by that water neck , ) is that where i plug them in to . ? thanks
      www.KONI.com

      Supporting Koni Since I could drive.

    4. 02-07-2005 08:19 PM #104
      Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD »
      Rod Ratio = Rod Length/Stroke
      Since your stroke isnt changing (86.4mm) then the only thing you can do to increase your rod ratio is to increase the length of the con rod.A longer con rod creates a narrower Rod : Piston angle when the piston is halfway down the cylinder ,causing less friction which means a smaller force is needed to move the piston.With a larger rod : piston angle there is more vibration in the engine.
      Just simple mechanics

      AH! I see now. Thanks for the explanation [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    5. 02-08-2005 10:03 AM #105

      built a spacer to fit this VW flange to hold the blue coolant temp sensor for the Digi-1 setup.

    6. 02-09-2005 11:55 AM #106
      is that on the side of the head , or the front ( looks like the side ) so i cannt just plug the blue sensor connector into the sensors that is on the side of my head . it comes out of the side water neck , so it will read water .
      do you understand me , after reading this , it doesnt seem to be clean . let me know if yu understand what i am talkig about as for the plug on the side water neck . thanks
      www.KONI.com

      Supporting Koni Since I could drive.

    7. 02-09-2005 05:41 PM #107
      Side of the head, above the transmission.
      The blue coolant temp sensor for the Digi-1 ECU has a different range of resistance between hot and cold than most of the 16V Motronic/CIS coolant temp sensors. A simple spacer and a new waterneck from VW will get the job done.

    8. 02-09-2005 11:07 PM #108
      what is the water neck from ? did you cnc the adaptor ? dont know how i would make one. thanks you had the right answer.
      www.KONI.com

      Supporting Koni Since I could drive.

    9. 02-10-2005 07:17 AM #109
      mr watts is all G'd up in the G-code y0.
      maybe he saved his g-files, heh.

    10. 02-10-2005 01:04 PM #110
      hahah... no CNC, just used the 16V flange and the other one to determine where the holes went. I did use a mill to pop the larger hole for the water passage, but a drill press, or a hand drill and vise with an appropriate sized bit can do the job.
      -Drill the larger, water passage hole first, then determine the locations for the bolt holes using both flanges.
      -Make sure the O-ring on the new flange will clear the big hole and mark location for the bolt holes.
      -Drill the bolt holes out.
      -Bolt the new flange using those bolt holes and trace its outline.
      -Cut it out with the band saw.
      -Test fit on the side of the head to determine if you need to notch it for clearance from the sensors bolted nearby.
      -A belt sander, or flapper wheel on a hand grinder can be used to dress the cut edges.
      -Cut a paper gasket to go between the adapter and head, then bolt it on and go .
      I could use some G-Code to pop some adapters out, but I can't justify spending the time and effort on it when I can make one in about 30 minutes.

    11. 02-10-2005 01:12 PM #111
      thanks for the drections, what is the flange off of ? which car . so i can find one , sounds easy to make the adaptor. thanks again
      www.KONI.com

      Supporting Koni Since I could drive.

    12. 02-10-2005 11:33 PM #112
      not sure which car it came off of, or what the exact part # is. I just asked the parts guy to bring out all the water necks that would fit the Digi blue coolant temp sensor so I could choose the one with the same bolt pattern as the 16V waterneck. It's been a while, but it looks just like the one in the picture of my motor .

    13. Member CORRADOFREEK's Avatar
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      02-11-2005 07:32 AM #113
      what kind of time does this take? or shall i say, if you were to charge for it, what would you charge labor wise. i have a customer who would like this done and i'm learning about the process and stuff from this thread and others. just kinda wanna know so i can be competitive.

    14. 02-11-2005 08:07 AM #114
      From scratch or installing the kit?

    15. 02-26-2005 11:50 PM #115
      Quote, originally posted by jwatts »
      not sure which car it came off of, or what the exact part # is. I just asked the parts guy to bring out all the water necks that would fit the Digi blue coolant temp sensor so I could choose the one with the same bolt pattern as the 16V waterneck. It's been a while, but it looks just like the one in the picture of my motor .

      pn of waterneck 068 121 144
      just read this whole thread. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] for more 16v g60's

    16. 02-27-2005 02:55 AM #116
      I'm gonna use a 3A bottom end with a 9A head, anyone want to speculate on the compression ratio of that? I'd use an ABA but I want to fit it in a Rabbit.

    17. 02-27-2005 11:46 PM #117
      the 3A's clearanced for the 2 valves.

    18. 02-28-2005 11:19 AM #118
      i love this post .
      just to throw it out there in here . any one have afuel rail for sale ? i have a little time till i need it so i am just looking around for one . thanks. just looking to save a little cash .
      www.KONI.com

      Supporting Koni Since I could drive.

    19. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      02-28-2005 11:54 AM #119
      Quote, originally posted by all-starr-me »
      the 3A's clearanced for the 2 valves.

      3A Pistons dont need a clearance. 8V = Non interferance motor.I was just saying the 3A Block = 9A Block.Same Block,different stamp #'s

    20. 02-28-2005 12:25 PM #120
      I know the blocks are identical, I'm just looking for a lower compresion ratio using stock parts to handle the extra boost from the g-ladder and 68mm pulley.

    21. 02-28-2005 01:14 PM #121
      That looks similar to what I got in the BBM kit, fitted both buts to my KR.

    22. 02-28-2005 11:43 PM #122
      anyone want to host a pic of my mock-up???
      ABF G60...
      anyone???

    23. 03-01-2005 01:03 AM #123
      When will yours be running?


    24. 03-01-2005 04:25 PM #125
      it will be a few weeks yet...i'm currently trying to get a work visa for the united states...it's keeping me busy.
      i have to finish the header (the reas of the mandrel bends arrived today in the mail) and i have to hit up my friend for an alternator and a corrado rad. the intercooler should only take a day or two (air to water) and the wiring should be another day or two.
      i'll keep everyone posted...
      thanks for the chip danny...
      m.

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