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Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic

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#1 ·
Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ******

Well here are pictures from my weekend project of changing out the N91 & N281 Solenoids in my '02 Jetta 1.8T Tip and a Fluid change also.
To start, get the car up on jackstands and ramps as I did, or 4 jackstands. Just make sure the car is perfectly level. That way when you check the level of the fluid later, it will be accurate. Also if you are going to open the trans up as I did, my recommendation is to use a pressure wand like at the coin op car wash to get everything really clean on the outside.
I used the hose at home and Castrol Super Clean. Any cleaner will do, you just want to make sure no road debris can fall into the trans. I also removed the Battery and tray to make sure all was as clean as possible. It also helps to remove the plastic tray from underneath the car, it needs to come out anyhow. Just as a point of reference a replacement trans from the dealer runs $6500-6800 new and about $4500 rebuilt. So keep it clean, so you have no problems.
I used a Carpenters level on the radiator core support for side to side level and on the drivers door sill to check front to back level. Once the car was level, I removed the Battery & tray as well as the Airbox, so there is plenty of room to work on top. The airbox doesn't have to come out, but it makes life easier.
Car on Ramps and Jackstands


Level on door sill

Battery and Tray removed

Next I removed the left front wheel, the inner fender liner and the side splash shield to allow for better access. You dont need to do this for just a fluid change, but if you are going to remove the pan, I feel it makes life easier.
Wheel off

Side Splash shield removed

Next thing is to go under the car and remove the drain plug to drain the trans. It seems that you will collect about 3 liters of fluid in the drain pan, sjoback reported 3.5 liters I believe. Just use a clean pail so you can measure what actually came out, by pooring it back into the trans fluid bottles. Use G 052 990 A2 fluid only. Available at Impex for $16.25 per liter, cheapest price I have found so far.
Remove this plug to drain

Comes out like this

Drain Plug magnet, crud from 1st drain interval

The next step is to remove all the crap out of the way. I started by removing the hard steel line from the trans pan and the side mount on the trans. Leave the line connected, just move it out of the way. A zip tie works good to keep it out of the way. There is also a couple of sheetmetal mounts on the pan to support the wiring looms that pass in front of the pan, just tuck the looms out of the way.You will need all the room you can get to remove the pan. It is very cramped so patience is your friend here.
Here is why you need to move all this stuff

Wiring looms that need to be moved

Remove this bracket and the one on the side of the trans in second picture.


Also remove this mount

A zip tie is your friend

Next I went back up top and removed the shift linkage and the multifunction switch, because it hangs over the pan. Note the position of the bolts, so you won't have to buy the special tool to re align the multifunction switch. Also remove the black plastic vent cap so you can remove the bolt that is near it. Just pry up on it gently and it will pop right off.
Next I went back down underneath and put a ratcheting tie down over the inner left CV joint and the crossmember. No need to remove the left side mount but the pendelum mount (aka dogbone) needs to come out so the tie down will move the trans back a couple of inches. You will need all the room you can get. the pan is a real biatch to get out and patience is your friend. There are many small wires that can be damaged if you are not careful. I don't even want to think about replacing the internal wiring harness.
Multifunction switch with linkage removed

Selector shaft with switch removed

Tie down over CV

Sub frame view of Tie Down

Next remove the pan that covers the valve body. I placed a drain pan under it to catch fluid. Suprisingly, very little fluid came out when removing the pan. Just a small bathroom size dixie cups amount of fluid came out. The pan must come out from the bottom, but you will need to work from the top to remove it so you don't snag any wires on the valve body. another thing is you will need to jiggle the power steering hose and wring looms to get the clearance needed to remove the pan. Take your time here. As the next picture shows the vent tube extends into the trans from the pan and is the major reason the pan is so difficult to remove. Also check out how the paint is missing internally on the pan and bubbled up. That can't be good, so I wire brushed all loose paint off and thoroughly cleaned it out inside of the pan.
Inside view of pan

The next couple of pictures just show random views of the valve body and solenoids. Unfortunately there is not much room to take pictures so I had to use an inspection mirror to get the shots. Sorry they are so small but it was the best I could do.

Valve Body Top View

Valve Body Bottom View

Side view from wheel well opening of valve body





Here are the new solenoids and strainer. I have now verified the strainer can't be changed without major dis-assembly. I mean splitting the trans case apart. That just isn't going to happen at this time in my life and the Solenoids seem to have accomplished my goals at improving the shifting habits of my trans.
N281 Solenoid, controls brake B3for smoooth downshifts

N91 Solenoid, controls torque coverter lockup function


N91 Solenoids Old & New

Strainer aka Filter



Here are pictures of the fluid and parts I used. I won't go into to much detail on the refill as sjoback covered it in his thread very thoroughly to I might add. Here is a Link to 09A Fluid change thread.
Fluid and misc parts used, last picture shows clean versus dirty fluid.



Update 11/06/2004
I changed another couple of Solenoids N93 & N283
Here is the N283 Solenoid

And this is N93 Solenoid P/N 09A 927 331 H

That's all for now, I hope this helps and encourages others to feel confident enough to Rip into that Tip.

Modified by coolvdub at 6:36 PM 8-4-2004

Modified by coolvdub at 9:04 PM 8-4-2004

Modified by coolvdub at 9:09 PM 8-4-2004

Modified by coolvdub at 8:05 PM 11-6-2004


Modified by coolvdub at 6:34 PM 12-15-2008
 
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37
#27 ·
Re: (coolvdub)

Quote, originally posted by coolvdub »
RR,
I got the information from this websitehttps://erwin.volkswagen.de/index.jsp

OMG I've hit the motherlode! This is a revelation! I registered and ordered a couple of docs - this is fabulous, thanks a BUNCH! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

You guys just removed a lot of
from my life...



Modified by RR at 12:53 PM 2-4-2005
 
#29 ·
Re: (Bryan95PassGLXVR6)

They are available separately, it's just most parts people either don't know or won't tell you. I have got all mine HERE, they are by far the most knowledgeable and cooperative parts people I have dealt with to date. I was also able to buy just the inner CV joint from them instead of the $600 axle assembly every body wanted to sell me.
 
#31 ·
Re: (coolvdub)

gotta question for ya...
my car won't shift from 2nd to 3rd gear...
vag-com 00264 - "solenoid valve 4 (n91) 36-00 Open circuit"
what's wrong / what else do i need to do to diagnose it?
my vw dealer says i need a whole new tranny without even looking at the car "we don't work on transmissions here, we just replace them..."
 
#32 ·
Re: (b_laitinen)

Are you sure about the VAG-COM Code? N91 controls the lockup function of the torque converter. I see now you have a 01M transmission, yours is a 4 speed auto correct? If so I don't have the technical info from Erwin on hand but will look up the info in my Bentley manual later on today. I believe the 01M tranmission is notorious for having a bad wiring harness in the transmission which is easily replaced.


Modified by coolvdub at 12:04 PM 2-19-2005
 
#33 ·
Re: (coolvdub)

Okay I checked the Bentley manual for you and the N91 Solenoid controls the lockup function on the 01M as well. So you have two entirely unrelated problems as near as I can tell. If you can find somebody local to you with a Bentley manual on CD and VAG-COM you can pinpoint the actual problem.


Modified by coolvdub at 2:38 PM 2-19-2005
 
#35 ·
Re: (coolvdub)

Quote, originally posted by coolvdub »
N91 controls the lockup function of the torque converter.yours is a 4 speed auto correct? Modified by coolvdub at 12:04 PM 2-19-2005

Although I have the 5 sp tiptronic, curiosity compels me to ask if I have a problem or not.
Coasting down hill at low rpm's my torque converter locks-up for one second, then releases for five seconds repeatedly, but happens only at low RPM's, in the 4th gear selector setting. Other than that this transmission is a wonderful piece of machinery.
 
#36 ·
Re: (okanagan45)

I have a feeling it may be locking and unlocking the TC to regulate your down hill speed, which if I remember correctly is a function of the programming VW has implemented in the TCU. Double check your owners manual in the section that covers the Tiptronic Auto trans, I think that's where I read it. I don't think you have any worries.
 
#37 ·
solenoid h91 problem

Hi i like your post about Solenoid Change but you did not write about your problem, what ware you are expiriancing with your transmision except error codes, example my VW Passat is automaticly changing from gear 5 to gear 4 and wont gearup again until i turnoff and on my car, i'm also having code 01192, please answer to my email doda@sistem-nis.co.yu, thanks, Doda. PS. also can you tell me prices of those solenoids, thanks again.
 
#38 ·
Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic ****** Updated 8-4-04 ****** (coolvdub)

Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic
Great article! I have 97 Jetta with "slow to engage Drive". If you let the car warm-up for 5-10 min. it will engage into drive with no problem. No delay problem at all going from P to reverse. Dealer want $1400 to replace the torque converter. Bad torque converter would not enable the car to go into reverse either. Problem is not T-converter. I think it is a stickey solenoid. Based on this thread, is one of the accessable solenoids the cause of the slow to engage? Which solenoid controls initial Drive mode? No tranny fault codes displayed. Fluid level is correct. Tranny shifts just fine once Drive finally drops in..
 
#131 ·
05 09A same issue

Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic
Great article! I have 97 Jetta with "slow to engage Drive". If you let the car warm-up for 5-10 min. it will engage into drive with no problem. No delay problem at all going from P to reverse. Dealer want $1400 to replace the torque converter. Bad torque converter would not enable the car to go into reverse either. Problem is not T-converter. I think it is a stickey solenoid. Based on this thread, is one of the accessable solenoids the cause of the slow to engage? Which solenoid controls initial Drive mode? No tranny fault codes displayed. Fluid level is correct. Tranny shifts just fine once Drive finally drops in..
Did you ever get this resolved. My 05 Jetta has been doing the same thing and I have installed all new solinoids with the problem still there? I haved 140,000 great miles thus far
 
#39 ·
I need assistance with my 02 tiptronic...

Don,
I've been reading this thread, and I think you will probably be the person that I should talk to; although anyone with info will be a saviour as far as I'm concerned. I have an 02 Passat, with the Tiptronic. As perplexing as this has been for me, I still have no solution in sight.
Symptoms:
Regular automatic mode:
1. As the trans shifts from second to third while putting around, it almost feels as if the trans is shifting into third, and then directly into fourth. I know this is not happening, because I count the gears that follow, and sure enough, there are in fact 2 more after the above scenario.
2. While using the "passing gear" from fourth, say in a traffic situation, the trans shifts from fourth to third, and just about every time it does this while on the gas, it feels as it slips and then catches. All the while, it does feel like it's pulling, but doesn't feel just right. It feels like when I let off the gas, it almost improves the "drive" of the transmission, and makes it easier for the trans to engage in the gear.
(Leads me to believe the clutch packs are slipping)
Tiptronic mode:
1. Drive the car sporty, in tiptronic mode, first to second, when second shifts, it's just like the "automatic mode" scenario, only in second. Feels like the trans shifts, but then shifts into third imediately. We know this isn't the case, because it is in a manual shifting mode. I'm scratching my head. It won't do it in any other gear while in tiptronic mode, and if I downshift while in this mode, all is good.
(Can you understand my dilema?)
Don I would love for you to help me understand this problem before my warranty runs out, and point me in the right direction. For that matter, anyone with some helpfull guidance would be a saint.
 
#44 ·
Re: (coolvdub)

I am very much interested in getting a replacement wiring harness for my '02 Jetta TDI (01M trans), if this is indeed my problem. The TCC disables after the car has been driven awhile. It had a an OBD-II P0740 DTC stored (TCC solenoid open circuit). I verified the circuit was open, but was able to regain continuity by moving the pigtail coming out of the trans around a bit. I'm hoping this is the problem, but I'm concerned that the solenoid may be going open when it heats up.
 
#46 ·
Re: (tdi_uvo)

Check this site: http://www.HetzelAuto.com
Best prices.

I am getting the shift solenoids from them - 15$ each. They also have the wiring loom (internal harness) for 89$. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Had some issues with my 01M, slipping in the 4'th, changed the oil, still, removed the valve body, cleaned it, found a clogged shift solenoid, swapped them, problem moved, decided to replace all of them, did not do it yet, because now the tranny performs very well.

Still waiting to get all the parts.
Modified by Drago's at 6:24 PM 5-22-2008


Modified by Drago's at 6:25 PM 5-22-2008
 
#47 ·
Re: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic (03Jetta1.8T)

don
you seem to be the man on vw - i am having a transmisson problem on 2-3-4 shofting - Aamco has it disasembled. 1500 cdn has it disasempbled and put together with new softseals. by reading the stuff on the site i think i nees a new solenoid..... is there a way to test each solenoid???????????? cause they say no . also i believe this all started cause my engine temp sensor needs changing for the second time and maybe my transmission temp sensor...... pricing..from dealer
each solenoid avge= 180 cdn
all 6 solenoid + valve body = 1671.42
i love the car its moded with body kit and H&R lowered....... what should i change keeping in mine i will use it for 4 more yrs
2002 blu jetta 1.8t 130k
please help
should i spend it out for future problems or source the exact problem - is it cause i was slack on the engine light and lost the temp sensor........... light was on for misfire 3-4 months......... now says misfire and temp sensor - nothing on transmission error..... adaptation i think is after fix from most peoples responses on this web site............ please help .......... need to know now cause i have 2 days to deside.............
please help don\
 
#49 ·
Re: (themacman)

There is a way to test them. Let me try to find the info.
You can buy a tranny from a guy I know in Toronto, he has a sec hand VW only business. Today I saw two 1.8T trannies for sale in his shop.

Modified by Drago's at 7:12 PM 7-14-2008


Modified by Drago's at 7:22 PM 7-14-2008
 
#50 ·
Re: (themacman)

Quote, originally posted by themacman »
is there a way to test each solenoid?
please help
can a valve body break easy or is it usually a solenoid due to heat damage?

themacman,
Yes you change the solenoids individually and test each one individually. I think I paid about $100 each U. S. when I replaced mine. If it were me I would have the tranny fixed. As stated earlier, a good use tranny is a very good option. That is what I have in my car now, been in for 86k miles with no problems and I only paid $1100 U. S. for it. Here is a link for the testing values of the solenoids.http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3469274 I hope this helps you out, sorry I didn't see it until now. Good luck and keep us posted. Oh yeah here is where I got my solenoids. Just call them up and tell them what you are looking for.
http://www.1stvwparts.com/
 
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